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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Wont Charge

I haven't started my car in about 1.5 weeks, the past several days were below freezing. I went to start my car and it was dead. No response on anything. I went to put a battery charger on it and when the charger kicks in the car makes some clicking noise and the charger shuts down. The charger then starts up again and after about 10 sec of charging there is some clicking noise in the engine bay then the charger shuts down. This action just cycles. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas. Year is about a year never had battery or charging (alt) issues before this winter.

any input appreciated.

The volts fluctuated between 2.5V and 5.75V when it starts to charge and shuts down. The clicking is coming from the fuse box

Last edited by dearmosd; 01-09-2017 at 04:39 PM.
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dearmosd View Post
I haven't started my car in about 1.5 weeks, the past several days were below freezing. I went to start my car and it was dead. No response on anything. I went to put a battery charger on it and when the charger kicks in the car makes some clicking noise and the charger shuts down. The charger then starts up again and after about 10 sec of charging there is some clicking noise in the engine bay then the charger shuts down. This action just cycles. I have never seen this before. Does anyone have any ideas. Year is about a year never had battery or charging (alt) issues before this winter.

any input appreciated.

The volts fluctuated between 2.5V and 5.75V when it starts to charge and shuts down. The clicking is coming from the fuse box
I'm not sure why it's clicking, but if you disconnect the battery from the car, you should be able to charge the battery, then reconnect it after it's charged.

I'm assuming the charger is good, and that the battery charging is somehow affecting the car's electrical system. That said, you could have a bad battery. If, with it disconnected form the car, the charger still doesn't work, I suggest taking the battery to a parts store and having them test it.

If you have a side post battery, you may need to pick up some screw terminals to connect the charger to. Perhaps your charger has these included as accessories.

HTH.

Doug


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Last edited by plano-doug; 01-09-2017 at 05:54 PM.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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well wife just got home and I put the jumper cables on it. The car's lights came back to life but still wont start. The theft light keeps flashing and It will now accept a battery charger but when I try to start the car while on the jumper cables the car just had a loud click in the fuse box and all the lights started to flash. Thats where the antitheft light was flashing. It information center asked me to put down the driver window and then up, which is weird but I did it. I have the charger on there now and will let it sit for a while and see if it holds a full charge, then I will try to start it.

If that doesnt work then I might disconnect battery and try to charge outside of the vehicle and if that doesnt work I take to store and have tested. Seems odd a one year old battery to loose charge that easy
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 06:03 PM
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Is this the OE battery???

I'm agreeing with Doug. I think the battery is pooched.

Probably shorting out across the bottom of the cells. They do really weird stuff when they go bad. Old batteries and cold weather do not get along.

Edit

Apparently I was posting this as you were posting as well.
I would still have the battery tested. It's not unheard of for a 1 yr old battery to fail.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.

Last edited by retiredpauly; 01-17-2017 at 07:05 PM.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 06:22 PM
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It is Hard to say but from the sounds of it, Sounds like you have a Large Draw on your car. Was it that you had your key in the ign in on when you connected the Battery Charger? If that is the case then it could be that the clicking you hear is your Relays turning on. However the Draw was to much and made your battery drop to fast and as a Computer Controlled Battery Charger it shut down to protect it self.

If your not able to get a Charge on it yet. Take the keys out, Turn off the Lights if on, close all doors and let the car sit for a few minutes. maybe even lock the door with the key to help tell the Computer in the car you have left. It will still do a small drain for a little while but not much....

After a few minutes connect your charger again. IF it is like I think and like mine, I would let it go slow for a short time, Maybe make sure it is on 12v if it starts out in 6.... Then after about 3 to 5 minutes change it up to the Fast charge mode or Mid range if your not in a hurry.... Then let it go until all the lights go out but the Green charged light.

IF you car don't have a good charge (Aka weak battery) will could go into security loop as a way to keep the power it has. Once the car is charged to a point that you can do some testing if you have a Multi Meter.

Once Battery is fully charged, Test the battery without charger on the car. Could be 12.6 to 13v at this time... Open the door and turn on your Headlights. Your car battery should drop down to about 12.2v for a good 2 minutes. With a Really good battery I have seen them stay there for 10 minutes. If your car starts to drop under 12v after a full charge before 2 minutes it could be your battery has a bad cell... Have it Checked by a Auto part or repair shop...

After the car test, I would turn headlights off and check if it will start! With full battery even after test the Security issue could be over and car starts. If it don't and Security is at fault do the Key Relearn. Again this will be some long time with the key on so make sure battery is on trickle or well charged. After the 3 Ten min relearn. The car should start... IF you have a battery drain that is a different test setup...

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:09 AM
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I saw a trick on youtube that might help you. AGM batteries aren't recognized by battery chargers when they are nearly dead, so the charger just shuts off. To get around this connect your dead battery in parallel with a good battery. This will 'trick' your charger into thinking the battery isn't completely dead. Then you can recharge your battery. If that doesn't work then maybe your battery has a faulty cell and should be replaced.

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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well for an update oddly enough the battery wouldn't charge while in the vehicle. I has a jumper cable from one vehicle to another and after 20min and battery reading 12.75V the car still wouldnt start. I had to take the battery out of the vehicle and fully charge it on the charger and put it back in the vehicle and surprisingly it fired back up.

Never had to take a battery out of the vehicle to charge but..... Very odd, plus with all the electrical protection circuits maybe something was in place to protect the rest of the car. Took battery to get tested for reassurance and it passed. So far havent had an issue since back in the vehicle but if weather gets cold I will start vehicle for charging to keep it up.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 07:39 AM
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Has GM gone to using AGM batteries?
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well after two days the battery went dead AGAIN. Had it towed to Chevy dealer and they told me my trunk light was stuck on. The sensor/trigger for the trunk latch must have malfunctioned and kept the trunk light on and over a couple days it drained the battery.

Thats what they told me so cant comment on the truth behind it but we will see when they replace the switch.

Thank you for everyones input
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 10:24 PM
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Well glad you got it figured out and hope this repair resolves your problem... Your 1 year old battery being fully discharge 3 or more times, even a new battery could be damaged and may not want to hold a charge like it would normally... May want to keep an eye on your car after fixed to make sure it recovers...

James

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James
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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New update. They are blaming the LED bulb I have in the trunk. They say the bulb is keeping a module "awake" which is draining the battery.

I had the bulb in there for about 4-5 months and it's finally causing this. Not sure to beleive this. How could a bulb cause an issue when the trunk is closed and not drawing current.

I know I'm not the only one with LED bulbs. This bulb might have failed and caused an open circuit but with trunk closed.......?

I have bought my LED bulbs from one source for four cars, never had an issue (bulb failure was rare) but nothing to this level of issues.
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post #12 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 07:23 AM
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Then what I would do is remove any aftermarket LED bulbs you got in your car replace with OEM and see if you still have drainage issues. It could be legit or it could be a lazy tech who just saw the mods and said EFF this. Been there done that. You still have issue with drainage then go back to dealer
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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I have never heard of a bulb change to create such issue. I have had bulbs not functional in the car but to this degree, its new to me
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:24 AM
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I think these LED bulbs have some circuitry in them beyond just a filament like your conventional bulbs have.
You can't dim an LED unless it has the brain that will let you and it's a special kind of dimmer you need as well. This may be the issue.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 09:30 AM
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Like mentioned above, this is an easy one to test. Just put a regular bulb back it for a few weeks and see what happens. :-)

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