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Oil Catch Can Installation - Write-Up with Photos

36K views 118 replies 26 participants last post by  BlueChevyGuy 
#1 ·
Hello everyone. I recently installed an oil catch can to my new 2015 Impala 2LZ, and thought I'd post an installation write-up in case anyone else may be interested in doing the same. I understand that the subject of oil catch cans may be controversial around here, but after seeing the results after only ~400 miles since installation, I'd like to share. This thread is only meant to share information and answer any questions anyone may have.

The can I went with was Elite Engineering. After looking at the various cans out there, the Elite can appeared to be a quality product and the ease of unscrewing the bottom half to drain it won me over. The product to use for the LFX Impala is the 2010+ Camaro LFX V6 can.

First, remove the engine beauty cover. This is accomplished by first removing the oil fill cap. Next, unscrew the single screw that holds the cover down - located behind the oil fill cap. Once the oil fill cap and screw are removed, pop the cover off (there are a few "plugs" on the underside that fit over posts that also help keep the cover in place; just apply a little upward pressure and the cover will pop off.



Once the cover is removed, re-install the oil fill cap.

Remove the plastic cover that sits above the radiator and spans the length of the front of the engine bay. The snaps that hold it in place have 2 parts - a small piece fits inside a larger piece to secure it. Pry the small pieces out first with a flat head screwdriver, then pry out the larger plugs. Once the plugs are all removed, gently remove the cover.



I found a location to mount the can. There is a bolt on the driver side that attaches to a bracket that (I think) holds up the aforementioned plastic cover. This about the only location that I could find, that would have enough space to install the can.



Elite sent me a few different brackets, as there currently are none offered for the Impala. The "ZR1" style was the best in terms of working with the space up front. That particular bracket was a 90 degree bend of thick aluminum. However, after test fitting the can, it was clear that the 90 degree angle wasn't going to work - the angle really needs to be opened up to 135 degrees in order to give the can proper clearances all around. I took the bracket to a local metal shop and they were able to bend it without heating it (or snapping it in two for that matter!)



OK, on to the can. Screw the bracket onto the can with the 2 small screws supplied. Then, screw in the hose barbs to the can. I went with the "Electroless nickel hose barbs" instead of the standard brass fittings. **Make sure you wrap the threads with plumbers tape first!** This is the only way to ensure a tight, secure connection.



On to the PCV tube… I ordered a spare OEM tube to keep as a spare. I can't find the part number at the moment - but it is the REAR (dirty) side tube. Locate the tube at the rear of the engine compartment. Remove the PCV side first, as the side that attaches to the intake manifold needs to be rotated in order to free it. The PCV orifice side is removed by pulling back (outward) a small "release" lever, then pulling straight up. It is an easy procedure, just be careful not to break the little lever. You can't see it in the picture below, but just follow the tube down and you'll find it.




Once removed, you now see the PCV orifice:


Cut off the foam surrounding the PCV tube. Then, cut the tube on each side leaving a few inches for the new tubing:


The rubber tubing that came with the can was fine - but I decided to order something more substantial that would offer better heat insulation. I ordered some transmission cooler hose from Jeg's (part #555-60355.) Once I test measured the lengths I wanted, I cut the tubing. **Note** - make sure you get it right the first time - as once the tubing is slid over both the OEM plastic tubing as well as the can fittings, it is very difficult to remove.

I then wrapped the hose with DEI "cool tape" to ensure that heat would not be a problem with the installation.

I routed the hose as follows. The "in" side of the can is the top. The hose routed directly back and onto the PCV barb. For the "out" side (on the side of the can,) I routed the hose around the front of the engine bay and underneath the engine beauty cover. It really worked out nicely. Pics:





After driving for approximately 400 miles, I unscrewed the bottom of the can to take a look. **DO NOT** over tighten the threads when putting the bottom half back on, it WILL be very difficult to remove next time. Just use enough pressure to screw it on firmly but not tightly. I carefully removed the can, and here is what I found:

It has already caught quite a bit of oil/water/fuel in just that many miles. Elite Engineering makes a good product, and Steve was a really good guy to work with. So, there you have it, I hope this walk-through helps anyone who is thinking about a catch can, or wanted to see one mounted on an Impala.
 
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#2 ·
Thanks for posting this writeup. Nice installation. So basically all that stuff in the catch can is what's causing the valves to get dirty in these new Direct Injection engines?
 
#3 ·
That's the theory. Since fuel in DI engines doesn't wash in over the intake valve, the oil coming in via the pcv hits the valve (which is incredibly hot) and burns on to the valve. Eventually causing it to not seal properly. In a traditional fuel injection system the oil and what not from the pcv is mixed with the gas that sort of washes off the valve.

I'm probably over simplifying it, but you get the idea.
 
#4 ·
Correct, Nick.

I've been around cars for a long time, and I researched many aspects of the carbon deposit issue before going through with the catch can installation. Direct injection has benefits, but also has its faults (at this time.) At this point we do not have enough evidence that GM or any other manufacturer has come up with a solution for carbon deposits on the valves and subsequent complications resulting from such deposits.

As I tend to be risk averse, I honestly saw no downside in investing in a quality oil catch can. As long as the fittings are secure and the installation is done with care, the can should have no negative effect on the ability of the motor to maintain correct vacuum pressure. As I said in the original post, I'm not relaying this information to start another catch can debate, just laying out what I've seen thus far. The amount of oil in the can after 400 miles was enough to satisfy me that I made the correct decision.

Best regards.
 
#5 ·
Awesome tutorial! Makes you wonder why GM and other do not implement something so simple if the issue with DI Engines is a problem and something like thin is the solution. One question, can you unscrew the catch can to empty it with that front plastic cover over it?
 
#7 ·
As I have always understood it, the dealer would have to prove that the the work he did, or the parts he used caused what ever failure they are denying the claim on. The onus is on them to prove it.
 
#8 ·
I always hear people say that, but I don't think it's entirely true. For example, GM will automatically deny warranty coverage if they detect a custom tune on your vehicle. They don't have to "prove" that the custom tune caused the failure - they just deny warranty coverage - period. They are NOT going to review your custom tune to prove that it caused the failure.

If you think about it, they can easily deny warranty coverage for whatever they want and then it would be on you to sue them in court (which could get VERY expensive). So in reality, since you are the one that needs warranty coverage and they can decide whether or not to provide it, I don't think that they really have to prove anything - at least not without a court battle...

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#9 ·
It may not be entirely true, or apply in all cases. But the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act does prevent them from denying you due to use of aftermarket parts. Now, that could only apply for direct replacements (such as using Trico wiper blades instead of Delco blades), as opposed to modifying the PVC system in this fashion. We'd probably need a layer to review the act and tell us for sure. Of course with most laws, there is always some gray area open to interpretation.

As for the tune, that can fall under "misuse of vehicle" which is a valid reason for terminating a warranty (as I understand it). And yes, the dealer can deny it (even if they shouldn't have), and then you could wind up in a court battle that could wind up costing more than the repairs. But I think under MMWA they are supposed to research it and provide proof that what you did caused the issue. They can charge you for the research. but if the research comes up in your favor, I think they are supposed to waive the fee for research. But again, the research fee could come up costing more than just fixing it outright. So it would be a gamble.

Aren't there any lawyers out there who own an Impala and want to decode the MMWA for us? :icon_mrgreen:
 
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#10 ·
This youtube video explains the Direct Injection problem of valve carbon buildup very well. He even empties a catch-can and you see all the crap that comes out of it. All I know is that I'm not getting rid of my 3.9 L pushrod Impala anytime soon. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS8riAae_bM
 
#11 ·
Been busy all day, didn't have time to reply to everyone, sorry.

I'm not worried about the warranty. I have another OEM foul air PCV tube (part 12634292) that will be put back on the car when it goes in for service. I've now seen the evidence first-hand… seeing is believing.

Thanks to all those who chimed in. I plan on keeping all of the liquid captured by the catch can in a oil quart bottle (or bottles, if you want to go there…) I'll periodically keep the forum apprised as the level of "stuff" in the bottle rises.
 
#16 ·
Let me ask you this - are you experiencing any effects of carbon build-up in the first place? Is you car noticeably less powerful now than when you bought it? Is your fuel efficiency lower than when it was new? Are you experiencing hard starts or a rough idle (again, compared to when it was new)? Are you getting a lot of misfires?

If the car is running the same as it was when it was new, then you are not experiencing any results from carbon build-up and "cleaning" the intake valves won't make a damn bit of difference - it's not going to make your car perform better than it did when it was new. I don't care how "dirty" your valves are - it means nothing if the car is still running fine. I think that is another point of disagreement about the "problem". Some people identify the problem as dirty intake valves. In my opinion, unless the dirty vales are causing noticeable issues with the performance and/or fuel efficiency of the vehicle, then who cares? I don't eat off of my engine or it's intake valves - I couldn't care less about what they look like, as long as my car is still running fine...

So unless you are experiencing some of the results of carbon build-up in the first place, you're not getting to get any results from cleaning the intake valves...

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#18 ·
I agree with this. I don't want any issues with Chevy because I modified the system. I'm not worried anyway - Besides the factory warranty, I have a 7 yr/84k GMPP extended performance plan which covers everything except wear items. If Chevy were to say I didn't use top tier gas, I'd show them my gas receipts. All other service will be up-to-date by Chevy.

When the warranties run out, it'll be time for a new electric car which drives itself.
 
#17 ·
I had bad idle within months of buying this and its gotten worse but I just accept the vibrating steering wheel and seat as a feature others would pay good money for and I got it free!
 
#19 ·
Everyone has their own opinion on the subject, and that's perfectly fine. A catch can is a simple device that catches oil vapors that otherwise would end up in the intake manifold and on the valves. I've seen the results with my own eyes; the last photo in the original post says it all. That accumulation in the can was after only 400 miles of driving. To each his own, happy motoring to all.
 
#24 ·
I agree. It's ugly knowing all that crap goes back to the intake. I can see how one may rest easier knowing the can will help keep the crap from going through the intake. It's good to see owners are trying to do something serious about a debatable issue that Chevy engineers may have forgotton about or presumably failed to address. :clap: As to whether or not the presumed crap on intakes will at some point cause performance problems on the Impala - well that's the big question mark.
 
#20 ·
Silver, where do you get extended warranties? I've gotten mail from companies but I've never trusted them as being real? Just curious where to go for an honest and real extended warranty. 36k or 3 year bumper to bumper is good and the 100k or 5 year powertrain. My last car the powertrain warranty saved me alot of money.
 
#25 ·
I still say the Italian Tune Up may help alleviate the problem if there is one with the Impala V6. Most of the carbon issues were with VW/Audi/BMW, but looks like they may have resolved the issue as may GM/Ford. Time will tell. Uncombusted fuel it appears make the crud buildup worse. Buy top tier fuel. Oil also plays a role. Buy low volativity full synthetic oil. I don't know about you, but when I have used (in prior vehicles) full synthetic oil, the dipstick looks clean up until the next oil change. If the crap hasn't built up in the oil, one could assume the oil is cleaner when it enters the PCV and the intakes. I'm not Einstein, but less crap would seem to imply cleaner stuff going from PCV into intakes. My two cents.
 
#26 ·
Buy top tier fuel.
I'm not sold that top tier gas does much to prevent this specific issue in DI engines. As I understand it, TT has just has a minimum level (and most like more than other stations) of detergent. Since DI engines don't spray gas over the intake valve, I don't see how it can help.

Now, not to say the extra detergent doesn't have other benefits. I just think it's a moot point for preventing this specific issue. Hell, I run it 99% of the time myself as one of the TT stations here is just as price competitive as all the rest (sometimes even better price too).
 
#30 ·
In my mind more detergent doesn't equal more combustion. Detergent is just that, detergent - a cleaning agent. And it can only clean what it touches. Unless I'm wrong about top tier gas just having a minimum amount of detergent, and it actually has something else in it to some how enhance the combustability. But it does help keep everything else that it does touch clean. So I'm still all for it.

Also, as I understand the problem, the crud is building up on the stem side of the intake valves due to no fuel there to clean it. So even if what is in the cylinder is combusting more, I don't see what that has to do with anything going on at the inside of the intake valve. I can see how a full synthetic may build up less crud than conventional oil, as that is making contact with the part of the valve that gets dirty. And that could be why GM specifies a synthetic blend (Dexos) to help with the issue.
 
#32 ·
According to this article, Top Tier fuel actually burns cleaner and causes less "by-products" that would contaminate your fuel system. There are other differences besides just having more detergents. At least that is my understanding. I go out of my way to use Top Tier fuel - meaning that if I have less than a half of a tank and I'm near a Top Tier station, I will go and fill up even though I don't need gas (since there are no top tier fuel stations around my house). I mainly use the Mobil station near work to get my gas. Every once in a while, I have no option and will have to use a non-top-tier station though (usually Sunoco, which seem to have a monopoly around my house!). :)

http://www.carfax.com/blog/top-tier-gas-medicine-engine/

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#36 ·
According to this article, Top Tier fuel actually burns cleaner and causes less "by-products" that would contaminate your fuel system. There are other differences besides just having more detergents. At least that is my understanding.

Top Tier Gas - Medicine for Your Engine - CARFAX Blog
I looked through the article, I didn't really see anything specifically about burning cleaner (other than it has no metallic additives that could affect emissions systems). Just that it helps keep your engine and fuel system cleaner in general.

I can see though how it could potentially help keep the spark plug tip cleaner, which could affect the strength of the spark and the combustion. But I still maintain that I see no way that TT gas can help prevent the intake valve issues that tend to plague DI engines.

would that warranty cover hubs and struts? cause i'm out about 800 so far on this car and not happy about it
The GMPP site basically lists what is excluded in the Major Guard (which is the most comprehensive plan) if you expand the triangle on this page.

https://www.ally.com/gmpp/service/#regional=major-included

It doesn't really say anything about hubs. It also doesn't say struts specifically, but does say it excludes shock absorbers. So I assume that would also exclude struts.
 
#34 ·
Several years ago I owned a 2008 Mercedes E-class turbo diesel. Right after the warranty expired I dropped $2000+ on emissions/fuel systems issues. A few months later I coughed up another $2500 on other issues. Then I got rid of it. I know the warranties don't cover everything but it's a far cry from owning a Mercedes out of warranty.
 
#40 · (Edited)
I guess the big question is: how much of that which is going into the intake is being accumulated and how much is being burned off. We won't really know until Impala owners start complaining about issues they've experienced by virtue of any buildup in the intake area. This is what haunts us all. Perhaps it will depend upon the amount of crap which can adhere to the valves and cylinder walls. Does using top tier fuel and low volativity full synthetic oil make a difference in the buildup? I hope members of this forum will report their experience as time rolls on. It would be great if anyone who owns a DI V6 would do a borescope and take pictures as well as report as to whether top tier fuels and full synthetic oils have been used and whether performance issues have been experienced. That would at least give us some idea as to empirical evidence as to why any issues may occur in our DI Impalas.

Simply saying that oil is being accumulated in catch cans doesn't necessarily mean that the oil is forming crud deposits on the intake parts. The catch cans may or may not be helping, and there are many unknown factors which may play into this. One relevant factor may be the amount of city vs. highway driving. A theory of mine: If you use top tier fuel and low volativity full synthetic oil and do sufficient (how much is unknown) highway driving as opposed to just constant city driving (stop and go, short jaunts), you may burn off the crap which would otherwise accumulate on the intake system. Just my hunch and two cents.
 
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