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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Where is Hot In Ignition for rear view mirror?

My 2006 Impala has a plain rear view mirror with map lights. It has 2 wires, Hot Always (orange) and Ground (black). I got an auto dim mirror from junk yard, and need Hot In Ignition to power the auto dim feature. If I connect Hot Always to auto dim, there will be a constant current drain, I suppose. Thank you for your help.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 01:02 PM
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I am not sure what year Mirror you have replaced it with so Iwill go off the 06 Day/Night mirror...

Pins 13,9 and 8 are used for the Mirror side of the unit...

Pin 13 is Power off the Rap Relay so it turns off after the Rap relay is told to sleep by the BCM
Pin 9 is Light Green wire and is Back up supply voltage from the BCM to the Mirror.
Pin 8 is Black going to Ground

Hope that was somewhat helpful
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, Revo2, for the reply. What I have came from a Monte Carlo. Year I am not sure. 2000+ I suppose. It is OnStar auto dimming with map lights. I am using only auto dimming and map lights. Wiring is exactly as you said.

Pin 6: Dk Blu/Wht: Constant +12V (for map lights)
Pin 8: Blk: Ground
Pin 9: Lt Grn: Backup signal +12 (disable dimming). I did not use this.
Pin 13: Brn: Switched +12 (for auto dimming)

Old mirror had 2 wires, Constant +12V and Ground. I used Add A Circuit and tapped from Power Window in the RAP fuse box (passenger side inner fender wall). Wire was tucked behind passenger side A Pillar cover, above the headliner, crimped right behind the mirror.

Power Window seems to be controlled by RAP. It gets turned off a couple of minutes after key was removed.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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I made a mistake in above post but am too late to edit it.

I tapped Door Lock not Power Window. Power Window has a huge fuse and I cannot tap it easily. Door Lock is Always Hot. I checked Sunroof and XM Radio in the same fuse box. Both are Always Hot. I gotta try RAP fuse.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:53 PM
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As I stated before, The Mirror main wire for power Pin 13 Come right off the RAP fuse. It is at the Fuse box Connector 1 Pin B1

For Pin 9 on the mirror, It goes to the BCM Connector 6 Pin 2 This is a light Green wire all the way.

Pin 8 is Ground and is also connected in the mirror for the lights ground.

Sorry I am not sure what else your looking for? Maybe make a Road map on what you have and I will try and help where I can.

James

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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My problem is to take a wire from RAP fuse. First, there is no wire coming from RAP fuse. So I have to tap from the fuse, but it is buried deep between big relays and ADD A Circuit cannot reach down to RAP fuse. Do you know which circuits are controlled by RAP? I remember floor shifter circuit is RAP controlled. But I remember it was a painful repair and don't want to touch it again.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 12:11 PM
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To tap the RAP fuse, you can use what they call a "Fuse Tap" - it's sort of like an add-a-fuse, but a lot simpler (it doesn't actually add a fuse - it just lets you use a fuse to get power). I use it to power my headrest monitors, for example...

EDIT: Here is a link to fuse taps:




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post #8 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 12:13 PM
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OK, I know it is some work, One of the things that people don't understand when People Repair Car Electronics and Electrical that there is sometimes deep work that needs to be done to make Repairs at times. I am not saying that you need to take out your dash and replace your whole inside Wiring harness I have been there done that. (Not yours but an 05 Impala) Honestly can't say I would ever do it again..

However there are some wiring coming off your fuse block, that is the best place to tap into your needed circuit for your mirror. That was the reason my last post was where it was coming from the Fuse box and the connector number and Pin number. Sorry I guess I forgot the color of the wire That color is Yellow

That Yellow also would be the same as the one for the Power Windows. In the fuse box that RAP is connected inside box to the Power Window This comes out of the box at Connector 1 pin B2 Yellow all the way to the Drivers door switch..

If you were to and say if you were to do a Fuse Tap, The leg closest to the Trunk Relay is the Protected side of the fuse. What that means is, If you were to remove fuse and test the slot away from the Relay it will show HOT, The one next to the Relay wouldn't show anything. So if Fuse pop and your Tap on the Relay side of RAP fuse you would be protected on your circuit. IF you make connection to other side make sure to fuse your circuit.

Sorry I couldn't be more Help
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I really appreciate your help. The fuse tap will not work in this case. The 10A RAP fuse was buried between tall relays. The fuse tap blades could not reach the socket. According to internet search, only 2 places, yellow RAP wire from the fuse box and Purple/White Floor Shifter wire.

Yellow RAP wire
I removed the plastic trim piece around the fuse box and located a couple of yellow wires. They were in a thick bundle of intertwined wires. I was afraid of pulling a single wire from a taut wire bundle.

Purple/White wire in floor shifter console
Since I have repaired the common key-stuck-in-ignition before, I chose this path. Lifted the plastic housing partially and tapped from the Purple/White wire. Now auto dim turns off automatically. Auto dimming needs less than 1 A.

Now I have easy access switched +12V in the car.
Thank you.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 01:58 PM
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Sorry I guess I should have mentioned that. Sorry I should have told you that there was a Splice also with RPO D55 or Coupe (Monte Carlo)... Then there was another one for the Police 9C1 and 9C3 Blunt cut at the floor.

At times yes one would need to take off the connector to the Fuse box or if able to reach, cut away the tape from the bundle of wires if able to know the wire color well enough Being both are B1 and B2 spots it could be easy to see the 2 yellow from the spots off the connector... Understand about not looking to take apart your bundle of wires. Good place where you picked it up from is what is important what makes you comfortable in the end.

In the end glad you were able to get it done.

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 04:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paker View Post
I really appreciate your help. The fuse tap will not work in this case. The 10A RAP fuse was buried between tall relays. The fuse tap blades could not reach the socket. According to internet search, only 2 places, yellow RAP wire from the fuse box and Purple/White Floor Shifter wire.

Yellow RAP wire
I removed the plastic trim piece around the fuse box and located a couple of yellow wires. They were in a thick bundle of intertwined wires. I was afraid of pulling a single wire from a taut wire bundle.

Purple/White wire in floor shifter console
Since I have repaired the common key-stuck-in-ignition before, I chose this path. Lifted the plastic housing partially and tapped from the Purple/White wire. Now auto dim turns off automatically. Auto dimming needs less than 1 A.

Now I have easy access switched +12V in the car.
Thank you.
Just an FYI - fuse taps *do* work with the RAP fuse (the 2006 and 2012 have the RAP fuse in the same location). It's that red fuse way up in the corner, between the relays, like you said. But a fuse tap fits in there just fine (not an add-a-fuse, but a fuse tap - very different things). These fuse taps are just very small devices that slide in with the fuse and provide a single power wire. Like I said, I and others have used them successfully.

Regardless, it sounds like you solved your problem, but I did want to clarify for others reading this in the future that a fuse tap will work.

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post #12 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:46 PM
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Here is what a TAP looks like just not everyone knows about them. They even have them from the old round fuse types as well. Been using them when needed for over 20 years



It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

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post #13 of (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the mix-up between fuse tap and add-a-circuit. I tried only add-a-circuit.

I am going to take advantage of this Accessory +12V. We once before left the map lights on by accident and killed the battery. Accessory +12, Always Hot +12V, and a relay will power the map lights.
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post #14 of (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revo2Maxx2016 View Post
Here is what a TAP looks like just not everyone knows about them. They even have them from the old round fuse types as well. Been using them when needed for over 20 years


Didn't even know such a thing exists. Thank you.

By the way, I have a trivial question. Is there a rule of thumb for line-load (? or upstream-downstream?). If a fuse is positioned vertically, does the top point to the source?
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post #15 of (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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PURPLE/WHITE in the floor shift console is NOT RAP. It is powered only when key is turned off to allow key removal. YELLOW at the same location is RAP and is powered at ON and RUN. I am not sure of START.

I wired to a relay RAP (switched 12), Ground, Mirror Motor (constant 12) and Rear View Mirror. I didn't change 2A Mirror Motor fuse.

Sorry I spread misinformation.

One more: In the fuse box at the passenger foot level, on each fuse socket, top is Line and bottom is Load.

Last edited by paker; 03-18-2017 at 05:21 PM.
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