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instrument cluster going haywire

40K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  RYD SLO 
#1 ·
Ok guys, have never seen this before. I have an 03 ls, 3.8L, loaded. While driving, all my gauges will randomly go into start up mode. Needles peg, battery light comes on in message center, airbag light, everything it does when you would start up. It does not affect the driving at all though. No hesitation, stalling, or anything whatsoever. Today it must've done it 50+ times in a 30 mile drive home. It's only happened one other time about a week ago, but only did it once. This is driving me crazy! I disconnected the battery and am letting it sit for a while. The battery tests out good also. Please! Any help?
 
#7 ·
A lot of cluster/passlock issues are due to a failing or failed ignition switch/cylinder. I would personally blow compressed air into the lock cylinder to try and clean it. If that doesn't help then, take your dash apart and inspect the ignition switch harness as well as cluster wiring. If nothing, bring to a shop or dealer and have diagnosed then, fix yourself.

Note: Your mileage is stored in the cluster therefor replacing it will require a reprogram/setting by a local dealer.
 
#9 ·
Very similar issue with my 2001. Replaced the ignition switch, about $40 shipped from rockauto.com, and problems were 100% cured. In addition to the lights freaking out I would also get the security light flashing and would have to leave the key on for 10 minutes to reset so the car would start.
Pretty easy diy repair, Kingnutin wrote up a 'how to' including pictures that will show you every step.
 
#10 ·
If you are having a passlock issue (Ie: Security light) I would suggest replacing the lock cylinder as well. The end of the lock cylinder has the passlock sensor in it. You might as well replace it all at once.
 
#12 ·
I replied just a couple of minutes ago but it seems to have been lost somehow, so sorry to repeat if that eventually shows up. Here's the short version:

I agree with g25racer but you might want to start with just the ignition switch first. I got lucky and that was the only problem (100% good for over 18 months now). Might save you a few $ since once unwrapped electrical can't be returned, or only for a small percentage of the price.
 
#13 ·
If you start having the security light come on and car wont start, get it fixed asap. A failing ignition switch will kill electrical components. :eek:k3:
 
#16 ·
#17 ·
I have experienced all the same issues. I've already replaced the ignition switch, which I posted in an older thread. but after a few weeks of reliability, all the problems came back. Ill try the compressed air soon, but could the back be to blame here?
 
#18 ·
^^ I would try the compressed air first.

What brand switch did you get? I have seen people have problems with the Delco's.
 
#20 ·
^wtf?
 
#21 ·
Lmao.^^^ Thanks G25. I did the compressed air thing today ill keep everyone up to date on here. I'm not sure of the brand, my mechanic knows I'm loyal to gm, so it might be a delco. What brands have worked best for people here?
 
#22 ·
Dorman
 
#24 ·
Checked on the brand used. It is bwd. It's a cs600 switch/commutatuer interrupter. Is that a low grade part? I also blew out my ignition with compressed air, but it didn't help. I'm thinking of replacing the bcm just because.
 
#25 ·
BWD isn't a great brand, lots of problems. A BCM would be a very expensive "just because"...
 
#26 ·
Well I hear clicking noises coming from the bcm sometimes when I turn my car off and leave the doors closed. I assume that's a short? I'll talk with my mechanic about the quality of parts he is using.
 
#27 ·
Are you sure you're hearing the BCM and not the RAP relay? Granted, either way kinda points to a BCM issue...
 
#30 ·
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