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Old 10-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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front wheel bearings

Hi all,
It appears that I have to replace my front left wheel bearing...I'm non-ABS.
I was hoping for some parts recommendations and perhaps some advice on the job.

I have seen some cheaper bearings for like 80-90 bux but with low warranties on them, or other brands like Timken with a 3 yr warranty but for considerably more money...

thx for the help!
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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First bit of advice, order the ABS hubs, there are only 2 differences, a wiring connector, and the price. For some reason the ABS ones are cheaper, just clip the wire off and they work the same. I always use timken, but I haven't actually tried the cheaper ones just for fear they wouldn't last. I did install a set of GMB hubs on a 2002, but that was too recently to tell how they are holding up.

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1978 Caprice Classic Landau
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I did something cheap from Advance Auto and they didn't last, more recently I went with Moog/National and paid a whole lot more. Can't yet say if they will last longer but I can say avoid the budget stuff.

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Old 10-03-2012, 12:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I look at it this way. On my olds van it uses the same bearing on the front as the impala.
Four years ago the front right bearing got noisy so i questioned how long i was going to keep the van so i looked at the cost , build quality, specks warranty and price. So i picked the option of the store brand and put it on.
Last year i was inspecting the van and found the driver side was starting give a bit of play so back to the parts store and put the same on as i did before #513179. Today i have had no trouble at all with the so called cheep bearings. Parts guys like the up sell.
The warranty is one year just like gm.
The van is run as a daily driver and a fair bit of highway trips as well. So with the bearing instaled and torqued to the proper specks i will say that there as good as the factory instaled bearings.
On a side note i put on a front bearing on my daughters car this spring due to the factory one failed Integral ABS. No problems

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Old 10-03-2012, 12:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Factory bearing lasted like 7 years on my wife's car, the Advance Auto cheapies were noisy in under a year and a half BOTH. Hell they might have been shot inside the 1 year warranty but I avoid riding in the wife's car and the wife is as good at reporting automotive issues as sterotypes suggest she should be. Hell it is not uncommon for me to need to drive her car and find a CEL, low fuel light and low tire in one trip.

I want to say the first ones I used were REAL cheap like $45 maybe you got something midlevel pricewise that is a lot better than the crap I bought first.

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Old 10-03-2012, 12:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Your not alone. I get to drive when it needs A. Gas B.oil change C. wash or fixed.

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Old 10-03-2012, 05:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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hmm yeah i wondered that about the ABS vs. non-ABS versions. I'll get the ABS version for sure. :)
So any tips you all can give me on the procedure? like what size socket for the axle nut. Do I have to push the axle out of the hub? Does that mean I have to disconnect the control arm ball joint and the tie rod end?
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCee View Post
hmm yeah i wondered that about the ABS vs. non-ABS versions. I'll get the ABS version for sure. :)
So any tips you all can give me on the procedure? like what size socket for the axle nut. Do I have to push the axle out of the hub? Does that mean I have to disconnect the control arm ball joint and the tie rod end?
Here are the non-ABS Timken part numbers, should they by chance be a better bargain.
TIMKEN Part # HA590085 {#513160, HA590048}

The ones with ABS:
TIMKEN Part # 513179 {#HA590093}

The ones in braces are earlier / alternate part numbers.

You will need to push the axles out. That may require a puller. Also, you're supposed to replace the axle nut when you do this. It needs a 34 or 35mm socket - can't recall which.

Similarly, you're supposed to use new bolts on the hubs. BEWARE: The replacement bolts I got from the dealer had 1/2" heads. The originals were 13mm. I rounded one some before I realized they were different. I know it's a tiny diff, but the bolts are in a bit of an awkward position wherein it's hard to keep the socket all the way seated and perfectly on axis, so the conditions are right for rounding.

I disconnected the steering knuckle from the strut, and left the ball joint connected. Can't recall if I did anything with the tie rod end.

HTH.

Doug

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Old 10-03-2012, 09:16 PM   #9 (permalink)
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here you go

Front Wheel Bearing and Hub Replacement

Tools Required

J 42129 Wheel Hub Remover
Removal Procedure

  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle . Remove the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .

    Click to Enlarge
    Disconnect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped.

    Click to Enlarge
    Remove the wheel speed sensor electrical connector from the bracket, if equipped. Remove the front wheel drive shaft nut. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement . Remove the brake rotor. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement .

    Click to Enlarge
    Use 3 wheel nuts in order to attach the J 42129 to the wheel bearing/hub. Use the J 42129 in order to push the wheel drive shaft out of the wheel bearing/hub.

    Click to EnlargeRemove and DISCARD the wheel bearing/hub bolts. Remove the J 42129 from the hub. ImportantEnsure that the wheel drive shaft outer seal/boot is not damaged.
  2. Remove the wheel bearing/hub and splash shield-noting the position of the shield for re-installation.
Installation Procedure



  1. Click to Enlarge
    Install the wheel bearing/hub with the splash shield as noted during removal. Caution! Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
    Warning! These fasteners MUST be replaced with new fasteners anytime they become loose or are removed. Failure to replace these fasteners after they become loose or are removed may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
    Install NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts. Tighten
    Tighten the NEW wheel bearing/hub bolts to 130 Nm (96 lb ft).
    Install the brake rotor and caliper. Refer to Front Brake Rotor Replacement . Install the front wheel drive shaft nut. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement .

    Click to Enlarge
    ImportantEnsure that the connector clip engages the bracket properly.
    Install the wheel speed sensor electrical connector to the bracket, if equipped.

    Click to Enlarge
    Connect the wheel speed sensor electrical connector (2), if equipped. Install the tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation .
  2. Lower the vehicle.

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Last edited by 463; 10-03-2012 at 09:28 PM..
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You might get lucky and the axel shaft may be able to move with a bit of help from a big hammer to tap the shaft back into the wheel bearing verses the puller. anti seize and locktite (red) and a torque wrench also.

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Old 10-04-2012, 08:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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The hub nut is 34mm, just pull the caliper bracket off, rotor, disconnect the tie-rod end, and pull the two bolts mounting the knuckle to the strut. Beat the end of the axle back with a big hammer, and you'll be able to get the bolts out for the hub. I use a wobbler attachment on the socket for easier access.

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1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks
95 9C1 3.08 posi
4 wheel disc brakes!
16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

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Old 10-04-2012, 10:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I didn't bother undoing the rod end, I just turned the wheel back and forth for access.

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96 Caprice with AI 200cc package
Best et 11.5
Best MPH 116
Just another taxi
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Safer for the tie-rod no doubt, I didn't think you could get enough room that way, but if you can, great.

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1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks
95 9C1 3.08 posi
4 wheel disc brakes!
16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

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Old 10-04-2012, 11:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I have an above average tool selection for the shadetree mechanic which might have helped me.

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96 Caprice with AI 200cc package
Best et 11.5
Best MPH 116
Just another taxi
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwayne J View Post
I have an above average tool selection for the shadetree mechanic which might have helped me.
Never start a project you can't get a new tool out of

Doug

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