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Old 09-16-2012, 05:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How to test wheel sensor to see if it's faulty?

My ABS light is on and I want to figure out which wheel sensor is faulty. Can I use an OHM meter to check the wheel sensor?

Bob

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Old 09-17-2012, 12:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, but I'm not sure what the resistance value should be, just compare all 4.

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Old 09-17-2012, 07:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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1000 to 1500 ohms when you have the wheel rotating by hand.

a wheel speed sensor is out of the acceptable resistance range, the ABS warning should turn on and remain on when the ignition is turned on. If the warning lamp cycles on then back off after a few seconds, that usually means the wheel senor circuits are within the acceptable resistance range. This power-on test is intended to check for speed continuity and shorts.

If all the wheel speed sensor circuits pass the resistance test, you can test the output of each sensor. Connect your AC voltmeter to the sensor leads. Spin the hub or wheel at about 1 revolution per second (approximately 5 MPH). Read the AC voltage produced by each sensor. Rear sensors should produce a minimum of about 0.6VAC, front sensors should produce a minimum of about 0.9VAC. Lack of adequate signal from a sensor will set a code as soon as the vehicle is moving about 5-7 MPH. The EBCM actually reads the frequency of the sensor signals, but the AC output voltage is a good indication of sensor performance.

Each wheel sensor harness should also have a DC bias voltage when the ignition is on. The wheel speed sensor connector (vehicle harness end) should have between 2.5-5VDC at each wheel. Lack of a bias voltage can indicate a wire harness or EBCM problem.

The EBCM also relies on a VSS signal from the PCM. If the wheel sensors check out as normal, and the ABS warning lights at about 5-7 MPH, that can indicate the lack of a VSS signal (the EBCM is receiving all wheel signals but no vehicle speed signal).

Other things to check are the brake fluid level sensors, brake pedal switches, and the rear/center brake lamp. Some systems use the brake pedal switch and filament of the center brake lamp as redundant inputs, and a failed center brake lamp can cause the ABS warning to light (as well as cause the cruise control to be inoperative).

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Old 09-18-2012, 06:48 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info 463.

I'll have to check everything out this weekend if I get some time. I checked the ohms on the wheel sensors a while back, but didn't have any info on how to do it. If I remember right one of the sensors showed as open and didn't register anything on the DVM.

Bob

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Old 01-24-2013, 06:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Concerning the power on test mentioned above, my abs and traction off lights come on and go off as described, but they return, along with the service traction system light, when I start the car. I have checked one hub with an ohmmeter, and it reads open, but I wasn't turning the wheel. Was this check valid ? Any thoughts on the lights behavior ?

I have been fighting this for some time. The hub I checked had been installed only a week before...

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

B
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White rabbit View Post
Concerning the power on test mentioned above, my abs and traction off lights come on and go off as described, but they return, along with the service traction system light, when I start the car. I have checked one hub with an ohmmeter, and it reads open, but I wasn't turning the wheel. Was this check valid ? Any thoughts on the lights behavior ?

I have been fighting this for some time. The hub I checked had been installed only a week before...

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

B
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I would rotate the wheel testing for a reading first.
Next is to look for power at the conector plug unpluged at the hub. Then with the key in the on pos look for 5 vdc on the feed line to the hub. What i have had to do is pull the wire harness right out and bench test each of the two wires with the meter and flex all the way down the wire till i get a open or number movement on the meter then repair the brake in the wire. Note that this wire is a very fine multy strand wire and with a 1/3 of the wires broke in the wire it is enough to cause a fault light with abs /trac systems.
If there is not a cash problem they can be replaced.
keep me posted and we will help you get it fixed.

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:28 AM   #7 (permalink)
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All correct information given by user "463". Another addition: 00-05 impala's have faulty or incorrectly designed abs harness's. Mainly the front one's though. GM wrapped the wires in electrical tape inside of the cable looming. In combination with that they made the front harness's too short which causes binding and eventually cracking the wires inside. Check the voltage and resistance as stated above. If nothing is found faulty, call your local advance auto store's. Some of them have ABS capable OBD scanners and will be able to pinpoint the correct wheel.

Important: Before plugging the connectors back onto the hubs, apply dielectric grease to each hub pin or connector!! These connectors are very prone to moisture in the rain/winter and can cause problems. Dielectric grease is a savior. I can't say this enough

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Old 01-25-2013, 03:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you Gentlemen ! I'm gonna hit this in the morning. I'll report back with the results.

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by 463 View Post
I would rotate the wheel testing for a reading first.
Next is to look for power at the conector plug unpluged at the hub. Then with the key in the on pos look for 5 vdc on the feed line to the hub. What i have had to do is pull the wire harness right out and bench test each of the two wires with the meter and flex all the way down the wire till i get a open or number movement on the meter then repair the brake in the wire. Note that this wire is a very fine multy strand wire and with a 1/3 of the wires broke in the wire it is enough to cause a fault light with abs /trac systems.
If there is not a cash problem they can be replaced.
keep me posted and we will help you get it fixed.
After testing all 4 wheels, all passed resistance tests, and voltage feed test. The front 2 hubs generated the proper AC Voltage signal, but the best I could get out of the 2 rears was .25VAC.

I am assuming I am replacing both rear hubs ? They both read the same. Also, how does it know the hubs aren't producing the proper signal voltage if the car hasn't moved yet ? The lights come on as soon as I start the car.

B


Last edited by White rabbit; 01-27-2013 at 10:17 AM.. Reason: More info
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Before you change the rear hubs lets do a bit more testing. I can't tell you what the #s are for the rear hubs are.
9 out of 10 times there is a partial wire or broken wire on one or both or the front hubs.
Try one more thing turn on the key and unplug the right conector use a tester on VDC and see if you have 5 VDC + or - .2 volts at the car plug and do the left side and see if you get 5 VDC + or - .2 volts.
make sure to bend and tug on the wires and retest as well as during the test.

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Old 01-27-2013, 03:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Right front, 5.02 VDC. Left front 5.02 VDC. I slowly moved the connector around, as you recommend. The jumper harness for the right front has been replaced. Shall I replace the left front jumper harness ($27) before investing in the rear hubs ? Seems logical...

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Old 01-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If your reading 5 volts it should be good.
now at the rear hubs you could un plug the conector and see if you have 5 volts.
It seams weird that both would fail.

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Old 01-27-2013, 05:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That's what I was thinking. Both rears showing 5.02VDC. I'm going to change the left front jumper harness. It is stiff and doesn't want to flex a few inches from the hub. I'll report back what I find.

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Old 01-27-2013, 06:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White rabbit View Post
That's what I was thinking. Both rears showing 5.02VDC. I'm going to change the left front jumper harness. It is stiff and doesn't want to flex a few inches from the hub. I'll report back what I find.
Good idea. If the front one has not been replaced already chances are its in bad shape anyways. I would peel the cable looming off of the rear connectors and inspect the wires. Or at a bare minimum remove the rear harness from the trac bar and test voltage with key on while you wiggle and twist the cable. Just b/c its showing the correct voltage doesn't mean their isn't a break in the wire's.

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Old 01-28-2013, 04:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g25racer View Post
Good idea. If the front one has not been replaced already chances are its in bad shape anyways. I would peel the cable looming off of the rear connectors and inspect the wires. Or at a bare minimum remove the rear harness from the trac bar and test voltage with key on while you wiggle and twist the cable. Just b/c its showing the correct voltage doesn't mean their isn't a break in the wire's.
I installed a temporary harness on the left side tonite, and the traction off and abs lights still come on. Before I spend a ton of time (and money) on the rear harness, is it possible I should be looking at the PCM ? Or the ECM? I don't get a check engine light, I fixed that with a new crank position sensor. I have replaced the right side hub Chevy said was bad, both front harnesses, the right one Chevy said was bad.

I guess I'm asking, where do I go if the rear harness is ok ?

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