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post #1 of (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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03 Impala Base electronics gone WILD

I am having multiple electrical issues and am looking to you all for help.
These problems occur while vehicle is at operating temp and usually after 30 minutes of drive time.
1) Door Ajar Warning
2) All Door lock actuators clicking
3) Trunk lock actuator unlocking trunk
4) Chimes sounding, intermittent to continuous
5) Park and tail lights flicker
6) Hi Beam out warning flickers
7) Hi Beam lamp on dash panel flickers
8) Passenger side relay marked "Park Lmp Relay" chatters while all of this is happening. (In the passenger side fuse panel)

Only occurs after driving about 30 minutes or so. I can reset it by pulling the negative battery cable and letting it set and cool for 4-5 hours or overnight. Next morning it works fine for awhile.

To date I have replaced the BCM and had it programmed by the Chevy garage (~2 years ago)
Replaced battery with a 700 AH because old one died, 1 week ago

I have to "wiggle" my key around to get it to move to the start position. Worn out switch, but would that cause all of the above problems at the same time?
A friend told me that it could be the radio with all of the built in security and controls. Comments Please?

Thanks for any and all help.
Semper Fi

Last edited by Jarh3ad; 03-05-2017 at 08:42 AM. Reason: added location of relay
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarh3ad View Post
I am having multiple electrical issues and am looking to you all for help.
These problems occur while vehicle is at operating temp and usually after 30 minutes of drive time.
1) Door Ajar Warning
2) All Door lock actuators clicking
3) Trunk lock actuator unlocking trunk
4) Chimes sounding, intermittent to continuous
5) Park and tail lights flicker
6) Hi Beam out warning flickers
7) Hi Beam lamp on dash panel flickers
8) Passenger side relay marked "Park Lmp Relay" chatters while all of this is happening. (In the passenger side fuse panel)

Only occurs after driving about 30 minutes or so. I can reset it by pulling the negative battery cable and letting it set and cool for 4-5 hours or overnight. Next morning it works fine for awhile.

To date I have replaced the BCM and had it programmed by the Chevy garage (~2 years ago)
Replaced battery with a 700 AH because old one died, 1 week ago

I have to "wiggle" my key around to get it to move to the start position. Worn out switch, but would that cause all of the above problems at the same time?
A friend told me that it could be the radio with all of the built in security and controls. Comments Please?

Thanks for any and all help.
Semper Fi
My first thought was a bad ground, a loose or broken ground wire somewhere making intermittent contact, likely somewhere under the dash on the driver's side.

That said, I'd start with the ignition. There are two parts to it: the lock cylinder and the ignition switch. Attached to the cylinder is a 3-pin connector (IIRC) which is part of the security system.

What you describe - having to wiggle your key - is a failure of the lock cylinder. It's not clear how that could be causing your issues, but, since the ignition switch is controlled by the cylinder, I can't rule it out.

I see lock cylinders at Rockauto.com starting at 80 bucks. You'll drop another ~40 bucks getting it re-keyed (to match your key) at a locksmith.

I found ignition switches starting around 60 bucks at Oreilly. You can get the AC-Delco D1432D for about 90 dollars at Rockauto.

The question is, while you have the dash torn apart, do you go ahead and replace the switch while you're replacing the cylinder? It's hard to say, especially when it's not clear the switch is part of the problem.

I would also inspect for broken grounds. Get under the dash and trace the wires with terminals that are screwed into the metal parts. Look for a terminal with the wire frayed at the crimp.

Based on your description, you may have more than one issue, such as a bad flasher switch.

HTH.

Doug

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the fast reply Doug.
I checked all of the grounds with a multimeter and they all were good.
I ordered the cylinder and the housing from Amazon for less than $40 each.
They sent wrong housing but right cylinder, so I changed that.
I seems to have corrected the problem. Now I'll put it all back together one component at a time, just in case.
Thanks again.
John
PS This forum is the greatest!!!
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