2005 Impala will not crank in cold weather - Chevy Impala Forums
Chevy Impala 7th Gen Discussion W-Body 2000-2005. Discuss all Chevy Impala 7th Generation Performance and Technical Discussion here.

User Tag List

 7Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Question 2005 Impala will not crank in cold weather

Car has 230,000 miles on it. I have had the passlock issue in the past. This is not that as there is no security message on the dash. It only happens below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. All the lights come on, radio works fine. When moving the key to the start position it will not crank at all. No clicking noise. Since we have a third car, I leave it sit and go to work. When I come home at night after the weather has warmed it will start right up. My local mechanic shop said they thought the ignition switch was going bad. I bought one and put it in myself. Today was the first cold morning and it is doing the same thing. Of course on a cold morning when I have to get to work I can't take time to test for power at the starter, so I may need to take time off to do so. Will a starter do this?
butch12772 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 06:29 AM
Senior Member
 
plano-doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,300
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Thanks: 94
Thanked 222 Times in 205 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by butch12772 View Post
Car has 230,000 miles on it. I have had the passlock issue in the past. This is not that as there is no security message on the dash. It only happens below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. All the lights come on, radio works fine. When moving the key to the start position it will not crank at all. No clicking noise. Since we have a third car, I leave it sit and go to work. When I come home at night after the weather has warmed it will start right up. My local mechanic shop said they thought the ignition switch was going bad. I bought one and put it in myself. Today was the first cold morning and it is doing the same thing. Of course on a cold morning when I have to get to work I can't take time to test for power at the starter, so I may need to take time off to do so. Will a starter do this?
I was thinking ignition switch, but we can rule that out now.

It could be the starter - in particular, the solenoid. Or, it could be the starter relay in the box on the passenger fender well.

The relay may not be moving when it's cold. Or it may still move, but not make a good connection. You can feel it click if you have someone turn the key while you hold your finger on the relay. While you're at, that's the time to have your meter on the starter solenoid to see if it's getting voltage when the key is turned.

Maybe hook the meter up and leave it there, but turned off, so that it's ready to go in the morning.

HTH.

Doug

.
plano-doug is offline  
post #3 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Thanks for the quick reply! I will update tomorrow. It will definitely be cold enough in the morning.
butch12772 is offline  
 
post #4 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
15 degrees when I got home so I tried some things. Still will not crank. No click from the relay so I replaced it with a new one purchased today. Still no click or crank. All fuses check out. No power on purple wire at starter when key is turned to the start position. With the key in the on position, I can jump the starter solenoid and it will crank and then start but dies after a second. Took off the ground wires and cleaned them. Still no joy. I guess I would assume I am not getting power to the relay, but I got froze out for tonight.
butch12772 is offline  
post #5 of (permalink) Old 12-07-2016, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Okay so I couldn't leave it alone. Went back out, put the car in neutral and on the second try it started. Put it back in park and now it started several times in a row. Neutral start switch?
butch12772 is offline  
post #6 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Unhappy

11 degrees this morning and back to square one. No power to purple wire on starter solenoid. No click from relay. Retried everything I did last night but will not crank at all. Driving to work in the backup this morning wondering what to try next. This car does have an aftermarket stereo in it that was installed just this past summer. Right after I put it in, I had the paslock issue but did the 10 minute relearn and got past that. I thought about putting the factory radio back in in case that has something to do with it?
butch12772 is offline  
post #7 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 01:57 PM
Senior Member
 
Revo2Maxx2016's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northwest USA
Posts: 588
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Thanks: 5
Thanked 94 Times in 93 Posts
At first thought I was thinking Relay, however you have changed that, I don't think it is related to your Shift I think that was a fluke to start from what I read... I think it maybe Related to your Ignition Switch. It sends info to your BCM and from there to your ECM, Checks all the things and then if the 2 computers have found a Start state will provide power to the starter... Seeing there was an issue with your Ign already with having to do a Relearn after having a Headunit installed there should be no reason for such with just a head unit! I guess my next question is was it done at a shop or did you do the install? It could be that your Ign switch was already going bad as they like to do this... And just was the next thing to get stressed out... Anyway was a Aftermarket Wiring harness used? Was one used that Retained the RAP or did you or your installer tap into your cars wiring at the IGN switch?

Sadly it is a weak part on the Impalas as I have known many in past years that have had to replace. Once done all issues related to starting was solved.

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
Revo2Maxx2016 is offline  
post #8 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
I did the install myself with an adapter harness from Crutchfield that was supposed to retain the cars functions.
Since I have already replaced the switch, you're thinking the lock cylinder? Cold weather seems to be the only constant with this. I had bought a starter yesterday, but I am going to return it and maybe see if they have a lock cylinder in stock.
butch12772 is offline  
post #9 of (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 04:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Revo2Maxx2016's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Northwest USA
Posts: 588
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 82 Post(s)
Thanks: 5
Thanked 94 Times in 93 Posts
Well thought maybe a bad Switch, I guess I didn't ask if it was new or used. I guess new so shouldn't be an issue and the key part not really going to help if your not having a Security issue, However you did say that you were able to start it outside and died shortly after?

With that said it brings up loads of other things related to computer or sensors. IT could be a bad Neutral safety switch. Even as one time it did work it could be a fluke. Or could be that it made a connection but next time didn't. Maybe check the wiring at the N safety, and Crank sensors? Could be bad wiring?

Don't think it is Starter. Seeing you were saying that the Relay isn't getting the info you need to tell the starter to turn... Plus you can get the starter to turn when not using the switch...

Almost sounds like a computer scanner is going to be needed to figure this one out...

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
Revo2Maxx2016 is offline  
post #10 of (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 06:34 AM
Senior Member
 
plano-doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,300
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Thanks: 94
Thanked 222 Times in 205 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by butch12772 View Post
I did the install myself with an adapter harness from Crutchfield that was supposed to retain the cars functions.
Since I have already replaced the switch, you're thinking the lock cylinder? Cold weather seems to be the only constant with this. I had bought a starter yesterday, but I am going to return it and maybe see if they have a lock cylinder in stock.
The lock cylinder shouldn't have any effect on this. About the only thing the cylinder can do to cause a no-crank is for it to lock up and prevent the key from turning.

You have replaced the starter relay, but it's not clicking. So it's not getting a signal. Since the ignition switch is new, it's either in the wiring (such as a loose wire going to the relay) or it's in the neutral safety switch. I would play with the gear shifter some more. Besides moving it to N, also, while in N, try pulling it to one side or the other - ie, towards D or R - to see if that allows it to crank. Similarly, while in P, try moving the shifter to see if that helps.

Since the relay is new, I doubt it's part of the problem, but if you wanted to check, you can remove the relay and put your voltmeter on the contacts for the coil. It should read +12V, then go low when the key is turned to crank, unless of course the PCM is preventing that.

Since you are not getting a security light, my instinct is to focus on the neutral safety switch. There is a white wire at pin J on the transaxle connector. That wire should be at GND when the shifter is in N or P.

Doug

.
butch12772 likes this.
plano-doug is offline  
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to plano-doug For This Useful Post:
butch12772 (12-09-2016)
post #11 of (permalink) Old 12-09-2016, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Didn't have time to work on it last night. 14 degrees when I got home and as I walked past the car I just stopped long enough to put the key in and try it. Started right up. I let it warm up and drove it into the garage where I will work on it Sunday. I have a commitment that will take me out of town all day on Saturday. I appreciate all the helpful advice and will update when I have more info.
butch12772 is offline  
post #12 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 05:48 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Sunday I couldn't get it to NOT start. I followed through with checking the grounding wire at the transmission connector. Of course it was fine. I went ahead and cleaned the contacts and reconnected everything. Since I had the lock cylinder I went ahead an put it it. The original one required a practiced hand to jiggle the key for it to rotate. Did the 30 minute relearn on the new key and it started fine........yesterday. Temp was about 30 F. This morning at 20, no start again. I tried every gyration of the shifter hoping against hope it would catch but no luck. Options now are to take time off work to chase a ghost, or get it to a shop. Really frustrating.
butch12772 is offline  
post #13 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
butch12772's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Thanks: 2
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Found this on another forum. 2000 Impala with 3.4 and 150,000 miles. Not sure how the multi function switch has anything to do with a no crank?

Got in the car one day turned the key and got nothing. It was almost like the battery was dead but I had full power to all my lights and radio. I got out of the car really pissed off and was pacing back and forth trying to figure out what it could be. I left the car where it was and came back a day later. I figured what the heck and put the key in the ignition and low and behold it started.
So I got on my tablet and Googled 2000 Chevy Impala not starting. It came back with a ignition switch failure. That made sense so I ordered one and took the whole dashboard apart to put the damn thing in (It really wasn't that hard, just a pain in the ass). I started the car several times to see if everything worked. It seemed fine so I drove home.
The following day I went to the store. Came out and turned the key to guess what? NOTHING!!!! I sat in the parking lot and cried. I called my brother and told him the car wasn't fixed. He happened to mention it to a friend of his that used to have a 2001 Impala. He said that it was the Multi-Function switch. I didn't believe him but I ordered one anyway. Turns out he was right.
So if your Impala has any of the following issues it's more than likely the Multi-Function switch which I found on Amazon for $37.50 plus 7.99 expedited shipping. (if you can wait shipping is free). Intermittent problems: headlights go out, turn signals don't work, fuel gauge bounces everywhere and car doesn't start. The longer you wait to replace it the more frequently it won't start.
butch12772 is offline  
post #14 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 08:25 AM
Senior Member
 
plano-doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,300
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Thanks: 94
Thanked 222 Times in 205 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by butch12772 View Post
Not sure how the multi function switch has anything to do with a no crank?
Me either.

Doug

.
plano-doug is offline  
post #15 of (permalink) Old 12-12-2016, 08:35 AM
Senior Member
 
plano-doug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,300
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Thanks: 94
Thanked 222 Times in 205 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by butch12772 View Post
Sunday I couldn't get it to NOT start. I followed through with checking the grounding wire at the transmission connector. Of course it was fine. I went ahead and cleaned the contacts and reconnected everything. Since I had the lock cylinder I went ahead an put it it. The original one required a practiced hand to jiggle the key for it to rotate. Did the 30 minute relearn on the new key and it started fine........yesterday. Temp was about 30 F. This morning at 20, no start again. I tried every gyration of the shifter hoping against hope it would catch but no luck. Options now are to take time off work to chase a ghost, or get it to a shop. Really frustrating.
Sorry to hear of the all the problems. About the only thing I can think of is to run some of the tests again. That is, put the meter on the starter solenoid and see if it's getting the signal. Then pull the relay and look for the signal there at the coil contacts. (One contact should always be +12V; the other will be a 0V. Set the meter to ohms, and test the 0V contact. With the key off, it should be open (very high resistance), and with the key turned to cranked, the contact should ohm out to GND (very few ohms).

At this point, I'm wondering if you have a bad (new) ignition switch. It would be a PITA, but if you could measure the crank/starter wire while turning the switch, that would help rule it out.

After that, it's time to look at the PCM, which is not good news.

I'm thinking a shop with the right tester (ie, Tech2) should be able to determine if it's a PCM issue or something else. That is, the PCM should be able to signal the tool whether or not it's seeing the crank signal and the neutral signal.

HTH.

Doug

.
plano-doug is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Chevy Impala Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2007 Impala SS will not crank in hot weather DriveTheGuard88 Mechanical and Electrical Problems 0 07-30-2016 02:20 PM
Loosing Antifreeze- Engine Overheating in cold or very cold weather RShea Chevy Impala 7th Gen Discussion 11 03-19-2015 11:41 PM
07' ss 96k...first cold weather tune-up Coho Autocare and Maintenance 2 11-05-2013 07:15 PM
Do engines sound louder in cold weather ? p-3 Chevy Impala 8th Gen Discussion 16 01-10-2013 12:00 PM
Cold Weather Start? mikellie Chevy Impala Discussion 5 12-04-2012 11:37 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome