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Chime still rings when pull key out

11K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  U.Nanimous 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,
I replace my ignition switch about two years ago cause of random no starts and crap like that. All has been great since until this month. When I go to shut the car off and pull the key out the chime keeps sounding almost like I have left the key in the ignition when I have not. I then put the key back in and turn it to the accessory and then slowly turn off and pull the key out and it usually doesn't chime. Once in a while it might take 2 or 3 times to get it to stop. I have tried it with old keys, new keys doesn't matter it just does it randomly unless I think about it when I go to shut the car off and do my routine slowly.

Two years ago I used a dorman ignition switch from Auto zone or some place like that. Could something be getting stuck and not releasing when the key gets pulled out? Should I squirt a shot of WD-40 down in the ignition? Or should I just buy an acdelco one and replace that?

Thanks in advance
-Scott
 
#2 ·
If your choices are WD-40 or replace it with another switch, I'd definitely try the WD-40 first. If it kills the switch, then you're gunna be replacing it anyways, so it's definitely worth a shot.
 
#4 ·
Ok, so thinking about this its probably not the actual key parts but what that fits into. So what I replaced before was not the ignition but the ignition switch. So it must be something in that that is not going fully to the off position.

here is the doorman part I used.

More Information for DORMAN 924701

I once had two airtek fuel pumps in which the sending units failed in 2 years so after the second one failed again two years later I went back to acdelco. So I am done with airtek products now and maybe doorman is on it way out too.

going to get the acdelco version and see if that fixes it.

More Information for ACDELCO D1432D

Thanks
 
#5 ·
Ok so I am still having issues with this chime not stoping when I pull the key out.

So I was having issues with the fan not working and stupid crap and it turned out to be the ignition switch again so I got an ACDELCO one and replaced it. I also had to replace the passkey lock thinking for getting the security light and the car not starting cause of that.

So over the past couple of months I have replaced the ignition switch, the passkey lock sensor holder and I even tried a new lock cylinder and all this still doesn't not stop this dam chime noise from stopping when I pull the key out. Its not every time but its getting more and more frequent.

So it takes me like 5-10 times of turning the key to acc and back off in order for it to stop. Most of the time it takes 3-4.

What I have learned over the past week is that if it starts to chime when I pull the key out, I shut my door put the key back in and turn the key to acc and them back off and pull it out and then open my door and then it doesn't chime. It has worked every time I have had an issue these past two weeks.

So my question is what the hell does the door being shut have to do with wether or not the chime rings when I pull the key out.

So weird but the door thing works every time. Just need to figure out what is going on so I can fix it.
 
#6 ·
Not sure what the door shut means in regards to this. I've started having this problem too, starting about a month and a half ago, but I always turn the key off with the door shut, and then get open it once the car is already off. Most of the time, it doesn't keep dinging, but sometimes it does. Also, sometimes when I get into the car in the mornings, it will start dinging as soon as I open the door, as if I left the key in it, even though it wasn't doing it the night before. Seems to have a mind of it's own.

I've also noticed that if the chime is dinging when I hop out of the car, the driver's door won't lock electronically. It will go to the lock position, then immediately move to unlock. The other 3 doors will lock normally, and I can lock the driver's door manually before shutting it, but it's a bit annoying.

I started noticing this right around the same time I noticed my key fob losing a ton of range (again, intermittently, seeming to have a mind of it's own), and now the key fob doesn't work at all. Do you have any issues with the key fob at all?
 
#7 ·
No, no issues with the FOB, I still have the original with a new battery and i had to resolder the battery connector once before.

Wow man my problems are not and bad as yours. So sorry. There has to be some kind of short somewhere then causing this. Do you have any issues with the radio and programing the settings in it?

Sometimes I can't get to the settings and have to disconnect the battery for a while and then it usually works.

I will have to see if my door doesn't lock when its chiming like yours.

These little issues are so annoying and I hope are not causing more damage.

-Scott
 
#8 ·
Just throwing it out there since I believe it is actually at the center of everything mentioned...

Door switches > BCM
Key in ignition > BCM
Settings on radio > BCM
FOB > BCM (this one is just a guess)

NOTE: Passlock bypass is basically a cheat that tells the BCM the key is always in the ignition, that's how remote start works.

So either it is the BCM crapping out or the "accessory" power line to it is staying hot (bad ignition switch?) making it think the key is still in position 1.
 
#9 ·
No issues with the radio programming. I have an aftermarket radio, but the factory radio is still connected in the trunk, and I just used it to reset the tire pressure and to try and reprogram the fob.

I have the Overkill tune, so passlock is bypassed completely. I don't have any no-start issues, just the annoying chime.

I'm not really sure the chime issue and the key fob issue are related, just that I started noticing them acting up around the same time.

I replaced the ignition switch about 6 months ago with a dorman unit, so I suppose it could be that, but I'm not bothered by it enough to go through the trouble of changing it out again, especially since I'm not getting any kind of no-start issue thanks to the Overkill tune.
 
#12 ·
It is like you could build the whole car with Dorman parts nowadays...but I sure wouldn't want to drive it. Nothing there negates my guess though, having the Overkill could just make you blind to some symptoms because they are bypassed, and maybe yours just hasn't crapped out as bad as saxmonsters yet.


Would the BCM cause the transmission not to switch at the rights points when I first hook up the battery again. It seems like it has to relearn the switching points and then it works fine after that.

Can I get a remanufactured BCM? Or can I pull mine out and reflow the solder on all of the connections? I assume that its probably cold solder joints causing issues.

Thanks
As jtrosky stated, trans shifts are controlled by TCM so it sounds like you have 2 separate issues, but I wouldn't worry about that one if it only occurs when you disconnect the battery. For the other problems though if it is the BCM, fixing yours would be the best option because there is some programming involved in replacing it and that can only be done once (technically up to 15 cycles of the key). If you can find your cars twin at the junkyard it could be worth a try swapping.
 
#10 ·
Would the BCM cause the transmission not to switch at the rights points when I first hook up the battery again. It seems like it has to relearn the switching points and then it works fine after that.

Can I get a remanufactured BCM? Or can I pull mine out and reflow the solder on all of the connections? I assume that its probably cold solder joints causing issues.

Thanks
 
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