Impala Forums banner

2002 Impala Maintenance Questions

2K views 23 replies 6 participants last post by  2009ImpalaThinBlueLine 
#1 ·
Okay. So I've got a few maintenance questions. I just got my very first car the end of November. It came with 194 thousand miles on it. And now it's got 199 thousand. It's just the base model. Before I get to the questions I must say I don't know much at all about cars. I've only ever changed the oil including the filter. Okay now here's the questions.


  • I've got an anti-freeze leak. What's the best way to find it?
  • It smokes white a bit. What could it be and how could it be fixed if it even needs it? I just changed the oil so it's not bad oil.
  • My blinkers sometimes don't work but if I lightly push my emergency blinkers without turning them on the blinkers work again while I hold the button.
  • When I accelerate I hear a kind of whistle or jingle noise like a bell. Any idea what that could be? Some guy at a gas station said his '02 Impala whistled too.
  • When it's just idling the engine gets bogged down for a second or two. I don't know if a little water got in the gas from condensation or if that's even possible.
  • My passenger window wiper (which stopped working) hits the seat in the bottom of the window so it makes a banging noise while it's on. I was told the motor is going out.

What basic maintenance should I do on it? I know to change the oil every 3000 miles but what else is there? I want to be able to keep this car for as long as I possibly can.

I may or may not come back and add more questions if I think of anymore. A little side question here. Which radios would be compatible with my car? I'm missing my front driver side speaker and I want to change radios and all the speakers in my car. So which should I get?

Thanks. -Nick
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Pressure test the cooling system for leaks. Any good auto parts store will have a tester on their rental tool deal.
Does it smoke white all the time? If it's just on startup I wouldn't be worried about it but if it's all the time it could be your antifreeze problem [emoji51]
Your blinker could be your stalk or your flasher button which has the clicker in it.
My impala whistles but only when it's below 40 degrees at 2500 rpm. Don't know why Lol.
Is the idle problem after you stop like at a stop light or just sitting there? Is it different warm or cold?
Make sure the shaft isn't turning in the wiper arm. This happened to mine and I tightened it up and all is good. Also DON'T use your wipers before breaking them free from ice and snow and such on the windshield.
Basic maintenance: oil change 3-5,000. Trans filter and fluid change asap if you don't know the history. Coolant flush. Power steering fluid change if it's dirty. Spark plugs and wires every 50-100K. If you don't know the history on these things better to do it sooner rather than later.
For the radio go to crutchfield.com and put in your car and they have tons of options on radios and speakers.
Have fun!
 
  • Like
Reactions: David3800
#3 · (Edited)
Is the idle problem after you stop like at a stop light or just sitting there? Is it different warm or cold?
I don't notice it while I'm at a stop light but I'm not listening for it plus I'm inside the car so it's kind of muffled. If it's cool outside I'll go and start it up before I'm ready to leave so it's warm for my 7 week old baby. I notice it after I start it up. I haven't actually listened for it after it's warm. Next time I'm out I'll listen and see if it does it while it's warm. I did go to AutoZone and had them read the codes because my check engine light was on and they said it was some 70 dollar part for the gas or something. I've got the paper for the part in my car. I can find out what the part is if you think it could be that.

*Edit* That part is the EGR Valve
Does it smoke white all the time? If it's just on startup I wouldn't be worried about it but if it's all the time it could be your antifreeze problem
It's pretty much all the time.
 
#4 ·
unfortunately if you're getting white smoke and losing antifreeze, i'd be worried about it leaking at the heads. a shop could diagnose it for you and tell you what it would cost for repair. if you want to have them diagnose it only they will do that, just specify you're looking for a diagnose and estimate only. i always have the shop diagnose and estimate before authorizing the repairs. i believe my 95 park avenue and even my 2010 impala get a slight bog at idle occasionally. lasts about 2-4 seconds tops and goes away for a few minutes. unsure what causes it, think it might be partially due to the ac/defroster kicking on at idle causing a big load that makes the car bog for a second. either way i wouldn't worry too much unless that bog cause a rough idle that doesn't go away quickly or stalls the car. crutchfield is a very nice company to shop radios/speakers through if you're willing to do the install yourself. try to get the wiring harness adapter through them as well to avoid having to splice wires. the cheap attempt to the blinker issue could just be a blinker relay, that's a 5 minute attempt at fixing it. if it doesn't work you know it's not that part the, but it does sound like it could be associated with the blinker stalk/arm.

my biggest concern with your car would be the antifreeze/white smoke. that i would probably take in and get it inspected to see where you stand. also ask the mechanic to go over it and point out issues it might have while he has it on the lift. when is the last time the car had grease put on the greasable points of the suspension (if it has any i know the 2010 doesn't really have any).
 
#12 ·
Unfortunately if you're getting white smoke and losing antifreeze, i'd be worried about it leaking at the heads.
Well I was adding anti-freeze at walmart one night and someone I know came up and we started talking. So I left my hood up while we talked. This one guy came out of walmart and asked what was wrong with my car so I told him he helped me look for it and actually found it. It was in the plastic part of my radiator under where the big black tube goes into the radiator I guess. I got some plastic jb weld and fixed it. I thought the anti-freeze leak was taken care of. Well turns out it's leaking in more than one spot. But back to my point. That guy said I wasn't leaking at the heads. I don't know if he knew what he was talking about but he sounded like he did. He told me to go replace my radiator because nothing would fix it. He even said jb weld wouldn't. But I only spent like 4 dollars on the jb weld. I figured at 4 dollars it's worth a shot. And it stopped leaking there but like I said it's leaking other places. But yeah I don't know if he knows what he talking about or not. Just letting you know what information I've got haha.
 
#6 ·
Before I get to the questions I must say I don't know much at all about cars. I've only ever changed the oil including the filter.
If I understand correctly, you plan to do much of the maintenance and repair yourself, correct?

I have a few thoughts on that, from my experience trying to keep my fleet of old beaters running.

First, get a floor jack, and some jack stands. Never get under the car without a jack stand positioned to catch it if the floor jack somehow fails. Some wheel chocks are needed if there is any chance the car might shift. DIY doesn't save anything if the car falls on you.

Next, a decent set of sockets and ratchets is necessary. I picked up a $100 set at Sears many years ago, and it's still my go-to set, altho over the years it's been augmented several times over with many more sockets and ratchets, often specialty sockets for a particular repair where the basic tools would not work. I approach every repair with the understanding that a trip to the store for a tool is always cheaper than 1) breaking something 'cause I used the wrong tool, 2) taking hours using an inadequate tool when a better tool would only take a few minutes. (Eg, Ratchet wrenches will often fit where sockets cannot.) And 3) having my wife fuss at me for cussing too much ('cause the wrong tool isn't getting it done).

A good example of a specialty socket is a 15mm deep dish for fitting over a long screw. I didn't spring for a whole set, but over the years, I've added 10, 13 and 18 mm to go with the 15. If you're particular, you can focus on your favorite brand. Mine is usually Duralast 'cause there's an Autozone within 10 minutes' walking distance of my house :) Another tool type that's been invaluable is swivel sockets. I cannot remove the #7 COP on my 97 F150 without an 8mm swivel socket. Again, I don't have a full set, but have picked up the most common sizes over the years.

3rd, Get some shop manuals. I have the Haynes for my 2002 Impala, and it's very handy. I have supplemented it with a digital GM manual I bought off the web (eBay, I think) for about 20 bucks. Between them and the web, I'm usually well prepared before I start a project, plus I usually have some webpages bookmarked in case I get stumped during the procedure.

There was one other thing I wanted to note, but danged if I can recall it at the moment. But I'll add it later when it crosses my mind again.
...
As suggested herein, pressure testing the cooling system should reveal the source of your coolant leak. It's probably a lower intake gasket. The 3.4's are well known for that. Changing it out was a weekend job the first time I did one. In your case, with white smoke, there could be other damage as well such as heat damage due to coolant mixing into the oil and causing inadequate lubrication. So having a good shop give you a diagnosis and suggest the proper repairs should give you a better idea of what you need to do, and in what order they should be done.

HTH.

Doug

.
 
#10 ·
If I understand correctly, you plan to do much of the maintenance and repair yourself, correct?.
Yes that is correct.
First, get a floor jack, and some jack stands. Never get under the car without a jack stand positioned to catch it if the floor jack somehow fails. Some wheel chocks are needed if there is any chance the car might shift. DIY doesn't save anything if the car falls on you.
Okay. I'm not exactly sure what a floor jack is. I do have the jack that came with my impala. I do have two jack stands. I'm wanting to get a bottle jack because the jack I have now is one of those jacks with a giant bolt going through the middle and you literally have to screw it to get the vehicle up and I hate it. So unless you tell me that I should get a different jack I'll be getting a bottle jack.

Next, a decent set of sockets and ratchets is necessary. I picked up a $100 set at Sears many years ago, and it's still my go-to set, altho over the years it's been augmented several times over with many more sockets and ratchets, often specialty sockets for a particular repair where the basic tools would not work. I approach every repair with the understanding that a trip to the store for a tool is always cheaper than 1) breaking something 'cause I used the wrong tool, 2) taking hours using an inadequate tool when a better tool would only take a few minutes. (Eg, Ratchet wrenches will often fit where sockets cannot.) And 3) having my wife fuss at me for cussing too much ('cause the wrong tool isn't getting it done)
I have two sets of sockets. I originally had one but I broke my adapter by over tightening. I spent 15 on each set. So I've got two ratchets. I'll need to buy some wrenches though.

You can focus on your favorite brand. Mine is usually Duralast 'cause there's an Autozone within 10 minutes' walking distance of my house :)
I don't have a favorite brand. So whichever you recommend that is a good brand but fairly cheap I'll go with haha.

3rd, Get some shop manuals. I have the Haynes for my 2002 Impala, and it's very handy. I have supplemented it with a digital GM manual I bought off the web (eBay, I think) for about 20 bucks. Between them and the web, I'm usually well prepared before I start a project, plus I usually have some webpages bookmarked in case I get stumped during the procedure.
The only manual I've got is the one that came with the car.

So having a good shop give you a diagnosis and suggest the proper repairs should give you a better idea of what you need to do, and in what order they should be done.
When you say "having a good shop" do you mean my own shop or an actual shop?
 
#7 ·
Another thought: you said you changed the oil. What did the oil look like? Was it black or murky brown looking?
 
#9 ·
That's definitely coolant. Intake gaskets or maybe head gasket needs to be replaced soon.
I've done this a couple of times so I know what is needed and so do the other people on here. Much cheaper to do it yourself than someplace else unless you get a deal.
 
#13 ·
Okay let me try and explain this to you. My uncle had no clue what I was talking about. When it leaks onto the ground it's coming from the driver side. You know that black plastic piece under the bumper? There's these square things behind that with a bolt or something in the middle of it. (can't remember exactly what it is in the middle) it starts there and travels down that black plastic piece and hits the ground. Now I don't know where it originally comes from but that's how it ends up on the ground haha. Sorry for the long post just trying to give you guys as much information as I possibly can. I don't want to be giving you guys to little information and you think it's something that it's not haha.
 
#11 ·
#16 · (Edited)
Do you have a plastic radiator cap that screws on or the metal one that goes on like a half a turn?
The tester at autozone doesn't work if it's the plastic cap.
Mines plastic and I had to go to advance auto and use their kit.
If it's metal, the autozone kit might work, IDK.
 
#18 ·
Ok the autozone one should work.
IDK why they used the plastic one but whatevs Lol.
 
#19 ·
wouldn't hurt to pressure test it. might show up some more leaks you weren't aware of before! keep an eye near the front of the motor where the belt is for a leak (that's where the water pump will be). should be a radiator hose coming from that "area," that should help locate the pump. sometimes when they go out they start leaking before failing out right. might look like your car is "peeing" lol.

on my 3800 motor in my 95 park avenue i had a leak where the hoses went through the belt tensioner (i believe, it's been 6+ years since i've had that car). so follow the radiator hoses coming from the firewall (those are the lines going to the heater core inside the dash).

whatever you do, don't use that stop leak stuff....i've heard nothing but issues. my dad tried it on his 01 silverado and now it doesn't produce heat very well in michigan winters...i'd rather fix the issue than band aid it that way. i agree with 04imp, you'll likely need a new radiator if that's where the leak came from. also as he stated check out the radiator hoses, are the looking swollen and bulging? that's a sign you're about to blow one of those as well!

chances are with that many miles the ol girl might need a few repairs, i personally like to fix things in the area i'm working on ahead of them failing (like if you're working on the radiator replace the hoses that are known to fail at some point now while the system is drained and easy to get to!).

fruit for thought.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Oh I just remembered sometimes when I'm pouring anti-freeze in the reservoir I'll hear liquid hit the ground and I'll look and I'll see anti-freeze on the group directly under the reservoir. If you look past the reservoir to the ground there's a black thing that's ribbed and if you actually know what I'm talking about that is what gets wet with anti-freeze. But I've felt under the reservoir and it's just a drip leak I have no idea where it's coming from. Oh that's another question. How do I get the reservoir off? I've tried and the bolts just keep spinning. If there's a hole in it do I buy a new reservoir or use the plastic jb weld?

*Edit*
Okay I've got another question. I just changed my oil like a week ago. I asked my uncle which brand I should use and he said supertech and 10w30 high mileage. Because it's an older car with higher mileage and has a higher temperature. I'm wondering if that information is correct.
 
#21 ·
The two nuts on the studs should come off and then pull the reservoir off. The studs shouldn't spin.
10w30 is fine and 5w30 is fine. Some people run 5 in the winter and 10 in the summer. Not a huge issue imho. I just switched to 5w30 Quaker state synthetic in mine.
 
#23 ·
Attempted to take my radiator off couldn't figure it out after watching 3 youtube videos so I put it all back together and put plastic jb weld on my leaking radiator because it was leaking from a plastic piece. Hopefully it will stop leaking long enough so I can get a new radiator and figure out how to replace it. Does anyone know where I can get a new radiator for a decent price? Either online (which I doubt) or near Clanton Alabama? Thanks.

I'm quoting in this thread because I don't want to clutter up the other one.
I got my radiator online at Rockauto.com for $100. They have some pretty good prices sometimes half of the name brand stores. Check them out. I've been 100% satisfied with what I've bought from them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NickDalton
#24 ·
Rear Suspension Knock

I have a 2009 Impala LT, 3.5L MFI FF, and I have a terrible knocking coming from my rear end. It sounds suspension related, but I have replaced my rear strut assemblies, sway bar links, and sway bar bushings in order to try and fix the noise, but nothing worked. Has anyone else had this problem, and how did you fix it??
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top