Interesting morning - my 2012 Impala DOA! - Chevy Impala Forums
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post #1 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting morning - my 2012 Impala DOA!

Went to drive my son to school this morning and my Impala was completely DOA - couldn't even unlock the doors because the battery was completely dead. I dropped my son off at school yesterday morning and all was well.

However, I think that I may know what caused it (but not sure why). Here's the story...

My wife was actually going to pick my son up early from school yesterday. Since I was in the kitchen (which leads to our attached garage) at the time that she was getting ready to leave, I told her that I would remote start her car for her (to warm it up). I grabbed hey keychain, opened the garage door and remote-started her car (so I thought).

Well, when she went to leave, she came back in to inform me that I had remote-started *my* car instead (oooopppss!!)! :-) Apparently, she has 2 keychains - one with keys for her car and one with keys for my car.

So at that point, I picked up a keychain (can't remember if it was mine or hers) and stopped my car (by pressing the remote start button). I heard my car stop running and went back to what I was doing. Fast forward to this morning and I found my car was completely dead.

What I'm wondering is if, for some reason, my Rosen stayed powered on when I stopped the remote start? Honestly, I've never stopped a remote-start manually like that before - or if I did, I drove the car shortly afterwards.

So I have a battery charger on the battery now - seems to be taking a charge - I'll know soon enough (the battery isn't very old).

But - even if the Rosen was the cause, isn't the car supposed to go into some sort of "battery rundown" protection if the battery gets too low?

Anyone else have any idea what could cause this? Has anyway stopped a remote-start and let the car sit for a day before trying to use it again?

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 05:39 AM
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The rundown "protection" for the battery is not effective imo. Will let you keep a usb charger on even after it should go off. Minimal draw is still a draw and if a phone or device is left plugged into it there is more draw.

Original battery on our 12 crapped out on me sitting in traffic waiting for a middle school pick up line to start, car was off for maybe ten minutes. Battery was only 3 years old. Have had pretty good luck in the past with factory batteries lasting, not the case with that one.
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, this is actually my second battery in my 2012 already (was replaced once under the bumper-to-bumper warranty)... I hope it's not completely dead, but since my charger did at least start charging it, that is a good sign. Usually, if the battery is toast, it won't' even try to charge it at all. But yeah, it would seem that either AC-Delco batteries just aren't very good anymore or these cars are just hard on batteries... Not sure which it is.

Will report back after the charger completes it's charge...

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:06 AM
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Does your headunit come on with the remote start?
From what I remember my headunit doesn't turn on with the remote start BUT I may be wrong. I should check it but I don't/can't use the remote start function right now cause of CELs lol. And technically speaking, your car should kill all power after turning it off and sitting 15 minutes (Unless you open a door then it should kill everything at that moment) except for the Aux plugs of course, those stay on.

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post #5 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Well, the Rosen does not come "alive" with the remote start (you can't use it while remote-started), but I'm assuming that it still does "turn on" internally. Plus, I do have an amp connected to it - so that may play a part as well. But the amp is connected to the same power wire as the head-unit (this amp allows you to get power from the head-unit power wire). Really not sure why it happened. And I'm *assuming* it was a dead battery - I mean is there anything else that could stop all power besides a whole fuse box losing connectivity or something? I guess I should have at least checked the battery voltage before I started charging it, huh? One should never assume! :-)

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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:41 AM
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my 2010 LS puked a battery in -40 weather two years ago i think. went to walmart and picked up an everstart i think. could always get the car to autozone and have them test the battery, might give a better answer on the status of the battery. a quick google came up with this:How to Find and Stop Car Battery Drains ? DIY Car Battery Drain using a multimeter would tell how much drain. then you could pop the fuse on the radio to eliminate that draw. is there an amp in the car?

just a couple of thoughts.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 09:01 AM
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Have the battery load tested somewhere, any walmart with an auto center or auto parts store can check it for you. Bet it has a dead cell, batteries will still take a charge with a dead cell and may even start the car.

In the case of ours it would crank the car with the my battery charger on start, and even roll it over immediately after taking the charger off, but once it sat 15 -20 minutes forget it.
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update. So I charged the battery for a few hours. Starting out charging it at 12A and then read that you really shouldn't change it that high for very long (not sure how true that is), so I lowered it down to a 2A charge. After about 4 hours total of charging, I disconnected the charger, re-connected the battery wires to the battery and remote-started it. Started great. Left run for 10 minutes (forgot about it!) and the remote-start had timed out. I then put the key in and started it normally and it fired right up - no lights or messages on the DIC. It sure *seems* normal... I'll probably just let it sit overnight and see what happens in the morning... Maybe even drive it to autozone to test battery and alternator tomorrow. Strange...

Anyone have any input on the charge amount? My inexpensive Duracell car battery charger allows 2A, 6A or 12A charge settings. Is it safe to use 12A for a car battery (I think the manual mentions 2A=tractor/motorcycle, 6A=car and 12A=truck).

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 12:47 PM
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those are the two steps i'd perform Rosky. in the past i've found that once a battery goes flat like you've experienced, they don't last the longest afterwards. especially in a snow belt state where the temps get low.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Quick update. So I charged the battery for a few hours. Starting out charging it at 12A and then read that you really shouldn't change it that high for very long (not sure how true that is), so I lowered it down to a 2A charge. After about 4 hours total of charging, I disconnected the charger, re-connected the battery wires to the battery and remote-started it. Started great. Left run for 10 minutes (forgot about it!) and the remote-start had timed out. I then put the key in and started it normally and it fired right up - no lights or messages on the DIC. It sure *seems* normal... I'll probably just let it sit overnight and see what happens in the morning... Maybe even drive it to autozone to test battery and alternator tomorrow. Strange...

Anyone have any input on the charge amount? My inexpensive Duracell car battery charger allows 2A, 6A or 12A charge settings. Is it safe to use 12A for a car battery (I think the manual mentions 2A=tractor/motorcycle, 6A=car and 12A=truck).

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You can overcharge a battery by charging at too high amperage for too long, in which case it would likely overheat and possibly even swell the case. Charging at 12 amps for a short period of time should be fine. If you were leaving it overnight obviously you would not want to charge at that high a rate.
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post #11 of (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Another follow-up... Car fired right up again this morning like nothing ever happened... I truly think it may just have been related to me stopping the remote start for some reason (maybe the Rosen doesn't handle that well?). Not really sure... I'm going to use it normally and see what happens. I may still try and get the battery tested at AutoZone though - can't hurt...

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If you don't have one, those little portable jump starters are pretty handy to have. Can be picked up around $40-$50 at most walmart stores. Bought my wife and 20 year old each one to keep in their cars, beats them having to wait for someone to help them.
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post #13 of (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 12:23 PM
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Sometimes it can be a pain in the backside to help troubleshoot a problem like this... However if you think there is a issue with the wiring on why your car died. I would do some testing on your car...

Please note this info will be for testing and testing only, Please understand that anything that I say should be disconnected for this testing should be connected back under normal use of the car. Anything asked to do without safety precautions in place are done so at your own risk...

Pop the Hood, and remove the lead going to your Hood Pin, Open your fuse box, If your car is in garage open door or have your car outside. With no one around the car motor area, Remote start the car. After the car runs a few minutes or as long as you had the car running the other day, Shut it off by remote again. Same as you did the other day.

Let the car rest for 10 to 15 Min, This would be enough time for the Computers to go back to sleep, At this time use a DMM and test your fuses at each fuse. This is a way of doing a draw test without having to put your meter inline with your system..., Take your DMM, touch lead on each side of each fuse, Maybe need to set it for lower volts then 20 like 2V... If your DMM is auto ranging then no issue...

First before testing starts and so you know this works, Please open hood, and leave door on your car open, Test the Fuse for the Interior lights over the 2 pins on the fuse, You will see a good amount of voltage, Then close door, when lights are off, test again and that first reading will not be as high shouldn't be anything left there when all lights are out.... However you may have other things on that fuse so I am not sure what all is connected to your fuses...

Anyway back to the normal testing.... Again, After as stated above, Hood up, Car has been RS, and then off, Waited for 10 or 15 minutes, then I would test the fuses underhood starting with your Radio fuse, XM fuse (Maybe in side fuse box) Onstar Fuse, and really test all the fuses. It is hard to tell you what you should read, However I can tell you that power to your radio shouldn't have any voltage more then a few millamps for keeping stations and time.

After testing your Fuses, If you see any voltage over .010... Then you should test it under a normal start and see if the fuses that showed Voltage after a RS was still there under a normal start. Again this would be after running the car as long as you had it running while RS, ... Turn key off, remove key, lock doors as you would if you just got home for the day... Wait for the 10 to 15 min to let the computers go to sleep.... Then test the Fuses that showed draw after your RS testing....

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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