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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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2014 Chevy Impala LS External Lighting

I have a 2014 Chevy Impala LS (BTW - does the "LS" stand for "Large Sedan"?) that I just finished exchanging the exterior lights to all LEDs, and I also installed a HID kit from OPT-7 (


and for the FRONT turn singal and DRLs


. The Tail Light LEDs I used are also by JDM and are


.

I have the (4x) 50w 6 Ohm resistors in place, however, when I apply the brakes or hazard lights for any length of time (especially in stop & go traffic) my blinkers FAIL to flash as well as my hazards. Is this because there is not enough or too little resistance to make the LEDs flash/blink? (BTW, if I had to add a resistor are they better in parallel or a series circuit; what's the

I would rather not clip the socket off and solider the connections, but I think I need too. So much for easy installation! Lol. I think moisture is fouling up the works.

Also, anybody know where I can purchse extra OEM GM 7444/7443 sockets for a 2014 Chevy Impala LS? There is a kit that JDM sells that allegedly is supposed to be "plug and play", with socket on one end and a 7444 plug on the other, but the socket will not twist-lock into place because its the wrong size, according to reviews on Amazon.

Finally, my License LEDs (T10 / 194 size) are not waterproof (I looked around and I could not find blue waterproofed leds) the 7444/7443 and 7440 replacements are. I have a missing piece on that black plastic insert on the Deck Lid where the Marker Light housings insets into it. Well when I take my car through the car wash the I have noticed that water is getting up into the hole and passed the grommets on where the marker lights twist lock into the housings. Also some water condensation was getting passed the grommet in my black twist caps that covers where the 9012 bulb locks into the headlight housing, not good. What is the best way to make them water tight, caulking? I mean its not like I need to access it (if ever, I hope) all the time, but I still need to if the LEDs go bad.

I hope I explained everything well enough for you... Thanks, in advance.

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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Did I post this in a wrong area, or something?

Can anyone give me a reply, please?

I feel like I am being ignored. It has bern 10 says since I posted this and I know this forum has excellent members who has been through these issues before. I just need some good guidance so I can make a valuable informed decision...

Thanks.🙁

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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 09:37 AM
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Not really being ignored but, I don't think that a lot of guys here mess with these LED things a whole lot for the very reason your having difficulty.

There was a guy here a while back that did, or tried to do lot with them, or said he did, and was always having trouble with them not working or burning stuff out etc.

He ended up being banned for some unrelated stupid stuff.

Some things are better left unsaid, which I generally realize right after I have said them.
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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 03:45 PM
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Purchase the GM 7444/7443 sockets you're looking for at any of your local GM dealer's parts counter.

2012 Gold Mist Metallic Impala LTZ
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 04:22 PM
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The socket you are looking for is available on eBay... I bought an AC Delco one for my Yukon because it burned up due to leaky front lenses (DRL socket).

In order to give you an opinion on waterproofing, I would need to see pics of what have. I have a 2014 but it is a Limited, the older body style. I have LEDs for my reverse lights and some of my interior bulbs. The only thing that I can suggest to anyone buying LEDs is to buy good name brand bulbs. Some of the stuff on eBay and Amazon is junk. I bought Sylvania LEDs which are available at AutoZone, Walmart, and O'Reillys that I know of. They are a little pricey but they work well and I have never had a problem with them. In any event, you can put some dielectric grease around the bulb bases and sockets to help keep water out.

I have never put LEDs in for turn signals and brake lights, but I am pretty sure you only need resistors for the turn signals, not the brake lights. The resistors will stop the hyper flash that happens when the signals blink too fast because of the LEDs. Brake lights don't need resistors. Someone can correct me if I am wrong. I believe the resistors should be wired in line, so you would cut the wire and solder the resistor to the wire on either side. Make sure to keep the resistor away from anything that could melt or burn because they can get hot.

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- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Addco rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces... More to come
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-23-2017, 11:20 PM
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I thought I would say WichkedGoat says running and brake shouldn't need the REsistors is correct. Seeing if you were to use them in there the Heatsink would get way to hot...

However one problem with what they stated about being inline isn't right... You would want to take your Resistor and place on the Neg Wire and blinker wire. In some cars this can be hard for some people to figure out. One problem is some light sockets are triple wire. What you would need to do is find out what wire is the blinker wire and the ground. Then you take your Resistor one end and tap it onto the ground and the other end on the Blinker Positive for it to be right.

If you place inline it could make it so your Hyper flash becomes faster because you are dropping a already low load to something even lower then what the normal halogen was.

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-24-2017, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revo2Maxx2016 View Post
I thought I would say WichkedGoat says running and brake shouldn't need the REsistors is correct. Seeing if you were to use them in there the Heatsink would get way to hot...

However one problem with what they stated about being inline isn't right... You would want to take your Resistor and place on the Neg Wire and blinker wire. In some cars this can be hard for some people to figure out. One problem is some light sockets are triple wire. What you would need to do is find out what wire is the blinker wire and the ground. Then you take your Resistor one end and tap it onto the ground and the other end on the Blinker Positive for it to be right.

If you place inline it could make it so your Hyper flash becomes faster because you are dropping a already low load to something even lower then what the normal halogen was.

James
Glad you corrected me on this... I knew there was a reason I didn't use LEDs for turns and brakes... haha...

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Addco rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces... More to come
2004 Pontiac GTO
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2004 GMC Yukon SLT
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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I thank you for your response back. Do not want to be banned or anything like that... LOL. But I felt like I was being ignored and I do feel like I can contribute here and there, too, but I do not want to sound like I am coming across like I am being rude either. But in return I do not want to be ignored either...ya know? ☺

Cheers!

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post #9 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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I do not like to mess with a good thing either. But my goal is to add more lighting and brighter lighting to my car when I am on a pitch black road and the only lighting I have available to me is what I bring to the party... not to mention I do not want to take away the car's good looks either...lol.

Cheers!

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Last edited by Sawuwaya; 01-25-2017 at 10:07 PM.
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post #10 of (permalink) Old 01-25-2017, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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My issue is that When I am in stop and go traffic and my brakes are being generously used on my 2014 Chevy Impala, AND I use my blinkers to switch lanes for some reason they will not blink. I know the resistors are installed properly (no hyper flashing) because my switchbacks for the front (DRL/Blinker combo bulb original was amber, thus the switchbacks [white/amber leds]) are blinking normally.

If I could change out the blinker relay to one that would work with LEDs it would/might be better. However, I was told that GM built-in that relay and combined it with the flashers and that could not be changed.

Incidentally, the flashers also will not blink in back if the brakelights are on for extended periods of time or if I have the flashers on for an extremely lengthy time while waiting for my next rideshare rider to contact me for a ride. Maybe the resistors are overheating and need some more space between them?

I am going to mount them on small pieces of aluminum further apart from each other and use Ancor marine wire and solider the connections instead of tap-ins. Like I mentioned before or thought I did. If I did not or was not clear before, I do apologize. To cover the soldier's points I am going to use liquid dielectric electrical tape.

Any thoughts, helpful suggestions, please?

Thank you again...

Cheers!

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post #11 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawuwaya View Post
There is a kit that JDM sells that allegedly is supposed to be "plug and play", with socket on one end and a 7444 plug on the other, but the socket will not twist-lock into place because its the wrong size, according to reviews on Amazon.
I will say I have switched out all the bulbs in both my vehicles to LED's and have found that quite often the sockets do not fit perfectly on most factory headlight or foglight assemblies. I had to trim parts of the tabs off to make them fit on a few of them. Usually afterwards they are a perfect fit. As far as using the turn signals on your Impala with switchbacks, I tried this with JDM's adapter off their website and got it to work by trimming the tabs. After getting them completely installed I found that the light going into oncoming traffic was way too high and dangerous to other drivers so I switched back to the standard bulbs.

As for your other issues of signals not functioning properly I cannot really help as I have not come across this issue myself but my setup if now a little different from yours.

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post #12 of (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 04:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response, ICubb.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ICUBB View Post
After getting them completely installed I found that the light going into oncoming traffic was way too high and dangerous to other drivers so I switched back to the standard bulbs.
As far as the brightness is concerned, I have also taken that into consideration. However, these newer cars already have leds installed as braking lights and turn signals...not to mention headlights.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ICUBB View Post
As for your other issues of signals not functioning properly I cannot really help as I have not come across this issue myself but my setup if now a little different from yours.
I contacted and sent JDM, the manufacturer of the 3030 leds, and they stated that the Chevy Impala's blinker circuit uses the bulb's high intensity circuit of the bulb. When the bulb heats up to high (regardless of the 50W 6 ohm resistor installed) the Chevy sends the blinker signal to the led bulb, but it looks like it is sending the signal to the lower intensity circuit of the JDM led bulb. So it does not even look to the eye it is even blinking, when it ever so subtlety is but very hard to notice at a distance.

So they are refunding me the price of those and told me to purchase their 50W led bulb version.

The 3030 led bulb works but having the hazards or riding the brake in stop-and-go traffic for hours, for some reason confuses the bulb enough so that it will not aggressively blink properly on command after prolonged usage.

I hope this helps out others if they come across this issue as well.

Cheers!

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