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post #1 of (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Amplifier is draining battery

I recently installed an aftermarket amplifier on a 2001 Impala, works great,sounds great. Yesterday the cars battery was drained, I know amps do that. And Im wondering what can I do or what do I need to install to prevent this from happening. Aftermarket amp is a Crunch 1100.2
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post #2 of (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 12:01 AM
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Hello, I wonder how your AMP was wired! If it was done right it won't drain your battery... I have a 4 Amps in my Regal that I have not started nor drove for the last 3 months and when I went and started the car for the first time it was little slow and LOW to turn over and start but did start...

So there is a different issue or it is that the AMP was not wired right and maybe staying on all the time.

IF you are using your Cars OEM Radio it has or should have an Amp lead for the factory AMP. Be sure to connect to that for your Crunch Remote turn on. If your OEM don't have a REMOTE turn on you need to have a switch in place to turn on and off the amp...

If your using a Aftermarket Radio it could be that it is not installed right as well. Problem with the Impala's (Not that it really is a Problem) but they don't have a ACC wire and need to have that wire pulled to an aftermarket when the car has an aftermarket system put in if they don't use a Wire harness to connect to the factory wiring. NOW not all wiring harnesses are able to keep the ACC function so again it could be they pulled the wrong wire for the deck and it stays on even though the car is off.....

IF you have a Test light I would turn the car off.... Pop the trunk and leave all the doors closed.... Test the REMOTE port on the amp and see if the wire is showing 12V if it does without the Radio on then it is wired wrong....

There is NO reason that ANY Aftermarket AMP should drain your car battery while the car is off.... Also make sure there is no strays that should be going to the power wire touching the remote lead... The AMP Power is connected to the Battery... IF done right also it should (NEEDS) to be fused within 18inches of the Battery under the hood or if you Relocated your Battery with in 18in of your battery connection....

Hope you found something useful
James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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post #3 of (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 09:42 AM
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I 2nd this^^. Make sure the amp remote turn on is wired to a source that turns on (gets 12 volts) when the ignition key is switched on. The amp needs to turn on and off just like any other power source or it will just drain the battery. If the amp is wired correctly then you coincidentally have something else going on or maybe the battery is just old and done?

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post #4 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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I guess i do have it connected wrong, removed the amp and battery hasn't been drained yet.
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post #5 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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I have a Pioneer 6800BT stereo connected to a GMRC-01 all wires are connected to the same color. I have the blue remote wire from the Crunch amplifier to the harness, I also have the stock amplifier connected with the same blue wire. Ground wire from the aftermarket amp is on the chasis. Red wire to the battery.
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post #6 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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The red wire from the Pioneer stereo is connected to a fuse that turns on only when the key is turned to acc.
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post #7 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 04:08 PM
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Usually the amp turn on lead from the stereo is blue, but regardless, it will be marked remote or amplifier. If you are using this wire to turn on your amps, then you are good as they will turn on and off when the stereo turns on and off.

The yellow wire on the stereo harness is your constant on, or memory wire as some like to call it. This one may be fused depending on the radio. The red wire is your switched wire, the one that powers the radio with the key on and off. Usually that one is not fused.

Having said that, I am not quite sure what Revo means when he says the Impala doesn't have an ACC wire. Hopefully he can shed some more light on that so we can help you figure this out

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Addco rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces... More to come
2004 Pontiac GTO
- Garage queen from day 1... bought brand new 12/31/04... Quick Silver Metallic/Black/6 speed... too much to list
2004 GMC Yukon SLT
- Wife's DD... bone freakin stock
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post #8 of (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 06:03 PM
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Sounds like the OP has it hooked up right, as long as his Radio is not connected to a fuse or wire that is 12V Constant rather then Switched....

THe Acc on the impala is at the radio via a Data line, So unless a person buys a Aftermarket Wiring harness that retains that. The wiring harness would most times have an extra Red length of wire to make a connection at the Fuse box... The higher end Wiring harnesses will have the RAP ACC converted for use. So then it is Wire to Wire and no extra Acc wire because it is included.

About the amp being left on. IT could be that you had it hooked up right however if you don't use Spade connectors to connect your wiring to your amp if they are type with Screws and not push on. You can at times if not careful get a wire that can connect with a stray wire...

Also depending what type of Harness was bought it may or may not have Onstar or Steering wheel controls and the safety chimes for when you keep your keys in the car.. At times people just buy the one from WalMart that does loads of years from like 94 to 06 and so on. There are a lot of if and buts, What matters is that it works for the End User the way they want it to work.

Most times there is no fuse between the Radio aftermarket harness. I always add a fuse at the radio (Can be a bad idea because of how hard radios are to get out.) However because there is no protection between radio and amp Remote Turn on, I connect one so if it was to short to ground it don't kill the radio or the amp; it would pop the fuse. Most other fuses behind the radio is done by the Car and radios have them built into the unit or offer fuses on the radio side harness. Any power to anything should be fused. Also Main Power wire from Battery to the Amp should have a Fuse within 18" of the Battery, closer the better...

James

It isn't what you Drive that matters, It is how you drive it.

James
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post #9 of (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 07:59 AM
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If he has it hooked up right, and there are no other oddball issues like a stray wire or something along the line, then I would have to say the problem lies within the amp itself. Certainly not impossible and not the first thing we want to think of when we tackle an electrical issue. I am guilty of thinking the worst sometimes, only to find out the problem was something so stupid.

My advice at this point would be to double check all of your wiring, stereo, amp, the runs from the stereo to the amp, and if it all looks and tests good, might be time to condemn the amp.

2014 Chevy Impala LTZ Limited
- My daily driver... 5% Window Tint, Rosen GM1210 Stereo, Addco rear Sway Bar, ZZP Strut Tower Braces... More to come
2004 Pontiac GTO
- Garage queen from day 1... bought brand new 12/31/04... Quick Silver Metallic/Black/6 speed... too much to list
2004 GMC Yukon SLT
- Wife's DD... bone freakin stock
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