The Basics of Installing Lowering Springs

**Burt** · 07-12-2012, 08:41 AM

Alright, well this past January or February, I swapped a set of SSC lowering springs onto my car, onto the stock struts. If you're using aftermarket struts, I don't know if there will be any tricks to those or not. You are going to need some tools to do this. You will need a jack, (preferably two; your compact scissor jack, and a large floor jack) floor jacks, a hammer, a set of sockets (and probably a breaker bar) a wrench, spring compressors, and,if you're using the stock struts, hopefully an impact wrench. If you don't have access to an impact wrench,(I didn't) you'll need a bit drive, a socket wrench, something like liquid wrench, or another bolt loosener, and a large arsenal of swear words. Also a good idea: camber bolts. Eibach sells them, but (I didn't) and you'll need them to get a proper alignment. But them, and install them yourself, and avoid a $200 plus alignment. So down to business.

Start with the front. Jack the car up, and put it on jack stands. DO NOT leave it on the jacks. Take the wheels off, and set them aside. The front suspension is very simple, and there will be a picture at the bottom. You have the spring and strut, connected to the spindle/steering knuckle, the front brake assembly, and behind all the the control arm. You will only be dealing with the strut, and thee spindle. The strut is connected to the spindle by two bolts. Take the nuts off of these bolts (this will take some effort) and then you'll hammer out the bolts. You may need to put your jack under the spindle, to take some of the weight of the spindle off the bolts. Once they are out, have someone support the strut assembly, open the hood, and undo the three bolts that hold the strut in. now that it's out, compress the spring until it is no longer putting stress on the strut (you will be able to move the spring around) Now for the fun part: removing the nut that holds the top of the strut on. If you have an impact wrench, good. Twist it off. If not, spray the liquid wrench on, let it sit, and then put the socket wrench on, put the bit drive in the top of the strut, and you and a friend are ready to twist and fight and scream until you break the nut loose. Once you get it off, take off the top, take out the spring, decompress it, compress the new spring, put it on, and put the top back on. Do this for both sides (duh) and put them back in how you took them out. Bolt the top in, line the spindle up, beat the bolts back in, put the nuts back on. After you get the car back on the ground, it's time for the back.

The back will be the same, except for two things: the rear calipers will need to come off, and you'll have to disconnect the ends of the sway bar. Disconnect it, take the caliper of (do NOT let it hang by the brake cables. Use something to hold it up. Then it's the same as the front with the bolts and everything.

Now I'm no expert, and when you're doing this, use a little common sense. It's easy to get hurt doing this, so be careful. ( I didn't get hurt, so if you do, don't blame me!) Good luck, and have fun with it!

Also, your final result should look something like this
http://www.impalaforums.com/appearan...-thread-3.html

dysphunktion · 07-12-2012, 10:15 AM

Thank you 100x. I may even print this out for quick reference once I pull the trigger on this! Thank you again man!

**Burt** · 07-12-2012, 10:27 AM

No problem man! There are several things I learned when I did it that would have saved me a lot of time, so i thought I'd share them

obSCEne · 07-12-2012, 09:54 PM

Do you happen to remember what the torque specs were for the strut tower bolts, and the strut-knuckle bolts?

**Burt** · 07-13-2012, 06:07 AM

I don't actually man. Sorry

**kingnutin** · 07-13-2012, 10:01 AM

I wouldn't worry too much about torque specs on those, just get them good and tight, you just need to make sure they don't come off.

**Burt** · 07-13-2012, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingnutin

I wouldn't worry too much about torque specs on those, just get them good and tight, you just need to make sure they don't come off.

That's what I did. If I could get them any tighter, that was good enough

07-12-2012, 08:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
Burt Big Red Grocery Getter Join Date: May 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 1,621 Thanks: 182 Thanked 110 Times in 83 Posts View My Garage Burt	The Basics of Installing Lowering Springs Alright, well this past January or February, I swapped a set of SSC lowering springs onto my car, onto the stock struts. If you're using aftermarket struts, I don't know if there will be any tricks to those or not. You are going to need some tools to do this. You will need a jack, (preferably two; your compact scissor jack, and a large floor jack) floor jacks, a hammer, a set of sockets (and probably a breaker bar) a wrench, spring compressors, and,if you're using the stock struts, hopefully an impact wrench. If you don't have access to an impact wrench,(I didn't) you'll need a bit drive, a socket wrench, something like liquid wrench, or another bolt loosener, and a large arsenal of swear words. Also a good idea: camber bolts. Eibach sells them, but (I didn't) and you'll need them to get a proper alignment. But them, and install them yourself, and avoid a $200 plus alignment. So down to business. Start with the front. Jack the car up, and put it on jack stands. DO NOT leave it on the jacks. Take the wheels off, and set them aside. The front suspension is very simple, and there will be a picture at the bottom. You have the spring and strut, connected to the spindle/steering knuckle, the front brake assembly, and behind all the the control arm. You will only be dealing with the strut, and thee spindle. The strut is connected to the spindle by two bolts. Take the nuts off of these bolts (this will take some effort) and then you'll hammer out the bolts. You may need to put your jack under the spindle, to take some of the weight of the spindle off the bolts. Once they are out, have someone support the strut assembly, open the hood, and undo the three bolts that hold the strut in. now that it's out, compress the spring until it is no longer putting stress on the strut (you will be able to move the spring around) Now for the fun part: removing the nut that holds the top of the strut on. If you have an impact wrench, good. Twist it off. If not, spray the liquid wrench on, let it sit, and then put the socket wrench on, put the bit drive in the top of the strut, and you and a friend are ready to twist and fight and scream until you break the nut loose. Once you get it off, take off the top, take out the spring, decompress it, compress the new spring, put it on, and put the top back on. Do this for both sides (duh) and put them back in how you took them out. Bolt the top in, line the spindle up, beat the bolts back in, put the nuts back on. After you get the car back on the ground, it's time for the back. The back will be the same, except for two things: the rear calipers will need to come off, and you'll have to disconnect the ends of the sway bar. Disconnect it, take the caliper of (do NOT let it hang by the brake cables. Use something to hold it up. Then it's the same as the front with the bolts and everything. Now I'm no expert, and when you're doing this, use a little common sense. It's easy to get hurt doing this, so be careful. ( I didn't get hurt, so if you do, don't blame me!) Good luck, and have fun with it! Also, your final result should look something like this http://www.impalaforums.com/appearan...-thread-3.html Attached Images __________________ '09 Impala LS -SSC Lowering Springs -ZZP Rear Strut Tower Brace -Dorman 927-100 Front Sway Bar -ZZP Shortened Dogbones

07-12-2012, 10:15 AM	#2 (permalink)
dysphunktion Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: New Mexico Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thank you 100x. I may even print this out for quick reference once I pull the trigger on this! Thank you again man! __________________ As I was going up the stairs I met a man who wasn't there. He wasn't there again today. I wish, I wish he'd go away.

07-12-2012, 10:27 AM	#3 (permalink)
Burt Big Red Grocery Getter Join Date: May 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 1,621 Thanks: 182 Thanked 110 Times in 83 Posts View My Garage Burt	No problem man! There are several things I learned when I did it that would have saved me a lot of time, so i thought I'd share them __________________ '09 Impala LS -SSC Lowering Springs -ZZP Rear Strut Tower Brace -Dorman 927-100 Front Sway Bar -ZZP Shortened Dogbones

07-13-2012, 06:07 AM	#5 (permalink)
Burt Big Red Grocery Getter Join Date: May 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 1,621 Thanks: 182 Thanked 110 Times in 83 Posts View My Garage Burt	I don't actually man. Sorry __________________ '09 Impala LS -SSC Lowering Springs -ZZP Rear Strut Tower Brace -Dorman 927-100 Front Sway Bar -ZZP Shortened Dogbones

07-13-2012, 10:01 AM	#6 (permalink)
kingnutin 8th Gen Antagonist Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Vancouver , WA Posts: 11,864 Thanks: 215 Thanked 562 Times in 380 Posts View My Garage kingnutin	I wouldn't worry too much about torque specs on those, just get them good and tight, you just need to make sure they don't come off. __________________ 1978 Caprice Classic Landau 350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl Stock rebuilt TH350 Edelbrock performer cam + intake Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed) Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks 95 9C1 3.08 posi 4 wheel disc brakes! 16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

07-12-2012, 09:54 PM	#4 (permalink)
obSCEne Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 15 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Do you happen to remember what the torque specs were for the strut tower bolts, and the strut-knuckle bolts?

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