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Trans Pan Reseal opinions

4K views 39 replies 6 participants last post by  zerialz 
#1 ·
Looks like my Impala is dripping a bit of oil from the Trans Pan. Obviously I'm going to need to drop the pan and then reseal it.. Last time I did this I just tightened til snug. This time I'll employ a torque wrench and tighten it to factory spec..

On to the opinion portion:
Locktite on the bolts or no?

New pan or no? The reason I ask this is, I've read that over-torquing the bolts may lead to deformities in than pan not allowing a complete seal.

New bolts or no?

Lastly what has been your experience with the filters you guys have installed? The Wix filter I installed when I last dropped the pan has not led to a problem but it's a bit pricey. Not as pricey as the AC Delco filter. If there is a cheaper alternative with good reviews I may choose to go that route.
 
#3 ·
Honestly I would just drop the pan, clean up mating surfaces, and reinstall. Using a torque wrench is a good idea. I did not an haven't had problems yet though.

I think the worry with over torquing is not torquing them all the same. That's when u can have a seal issue.

I would highly recommend sticking with the wix filter! I bought a cheaper one and no matter what I did it would not go in. I had to clean the old one and reuse it. I would purchase a few of them on Rockauto as they are cheaper there and u could save on shipping.

I have also heard its recommended to retorque those bolts after say a month or so. ESP if you replace the gasket/seal.
 
#4 ·
I cleaned the shit out of the mating surfaces when I dropped it the first time. Everything was smooth I did not check the pan itself for warping. Yeah I'ma go with the Wix again. It's a good filter. What do you guys think about locktite? and also did anyone use anything besides the gasket to seal the pan? or just the gasket? because all I used was the new gasket.. No adhesive or anything..
 
#5 ·
I would recommend using or getting an oem gasket. Far superior

Loctite is a good idea too.
 
#6 ·
You might already know this but you will need an INCH pound torque wrench to torque it to spec. I have both a 3.4 and 3.5 that I did a pan drop on and they were around 100-110 inch pounds of torque. I reused the original pan gasket and bolts with no loctite. It's been close to a year since then and no leaks at all.
 
#7 ·
I think zerialz leak is due to the junk aftermarket gasket and improper torque. No offense zerialz

Just saying u could have missed a bolt on your last torque sequence. And the aftermarket gasket has possibility of compressing over time unlike the oem hard rubber one.
 
#8 ·
Fel pro was the same quality as oem when compared side by side down to the metal core and rubber thickness.. I think my prob is over-torquing leading to pan warping.. I'm capable of rectifying all of this and identifying root cause once the issue is assessed during repair.. It's kind of what I do.. I'm just polling the audience for longevity advice..
 
#9 ·
The pan is pretty thick I highly doubt it's warped. You would snap a bolt off before warping the pan
 
#10 ·
Personally, I've decided to ALWAYS use OEM replacement parts for things like filters, gaskets and even most "hard" parts. They may cost a little more, but at least that you KNOW that you are getting a part that was designed and manufactured for the vehicle by the vehicle manufacturer. It seems that quite a few parts (maybe even all?) are actually trademarked/copyrighted or whatever the correct term is and other manufacturers are not legally allowed to make the EXACT same part - so they usually do differ in some aspect.

Just as an example, when looking for replacement grilles, the non-OEM grilles couldn't include the bowtie-logo-shaped mounting surface. They simply had a rectangle there to mount the bowtie instead of a bowtie-shaped mount. I've also heard of aftermarket fenders, etc not fitting well. And for something as important as gaskets and filters (air, oil, etc), it's just not worth the risk to go with aftermarket items just to save a few bucks - especially when you consider how infrequently you need to replace these parts.

Just my two cents about OEM parts! :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#11 ·
Any updates zerialz?
 
#12 ·
Nope haven't gotten around to it with the holidays and whatnot.. The leak is very slow. I'm thinking it might just be a bad gasket at this point since it's so slow. But I won't be able to tear into it for at least a couple of weeks..
 
#13 ·
Understood

Could also be a dipstick tube
 
#14 ·
that is a possibility. At the normal weld spot? I would think it would leak a bit more and faster if that were the case but definitely something to look at.
 
#15 ·
Alright I'll probably buy the pan, new bolts and an AC Delco gasket this weekend.. Will let you guys know soon.
 
#16 ·
Ya you might as well buy a new pan considering they aren't too expensive.

Have a good torque wrench?

Also prob a good time to install a drain plug. Next summer when I swap the fluid and filter I am going to do a drain plug as well. Will help keep the mess to a minimum. Although I didn't spill much last time.
 
#17 ·
I am buying a new pan..
 
#19 ·
I was just saying yes it's not a bad idea. Wasn't telling you to do so.

So ur going to buy a new one but not swap it right away? Why? How much is a new pan and where are u buying from?
 
#18 ·
I will use old pan.. Will straight edge it to check warpage.. Tap a drain plug.. And swap on next maintenance unless warped..
 
#20 ·
Rockauto - pan with bolts is like 30.. I planned on buying a pan.. No matter what..
 
#21 ·
Gotcha! Not a bad price and I understand. I thought maybe you were going to buy it locally. That's why I questioned ... Why

Well I wish you the best of luck! Keep us (me lol) posted

Using a torque wrench this time or no? I have yet to see any leaks on mine. But when weather permits I'm going to check the bolts again.

I still have a slipping problem on really cold days after the Trans go kit. It slips from 2nd to 3rd (long hesitation to shift). I have to hover the rpm's at 3k for quite sometime until it shifts. After it first shifts to 3rd ... It shifts fine after that. My guess is a gummed up/dirty solenoid and the cold just makes it worse.
 
#22 ·
I'm gonna swap the new pan immediately.. I'm gonna check the OEM for warping.. If it isn't warped I'll tap a drain..
 
#23 ·
Now I gotcha! Lol

Read my post again. I edited it a few times. What do u think?
 
#24 ·
I havent had a slip prob since the kit even with the leak.. No max adapt at all.. Wife doesnt even know there is an issue. I just see the fluid on the driveway.. I will also buy a torque wrench since it'll benefit my other builds..
 
#25 ·
The impala is the wifes and I drive it when we go out..
 
#26 ·
I see. I have yet to see max adapt problem but still have the initial slip/delay shift. But only the initial first shift. Hence why I don't get the max adapt.
 
#27 ·
Warm the old girl up.. Maybe a remote start is in your future..
 
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