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Old 04-23-2012, 09:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine block ID

Can anyone tell me if there is a Gen. 1 and Gen. 2 LT1 block?
How does one identify them and what are the main differences in them?
Thanks
ed

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Old 04-23-2012, 10:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I have heard one report of a different LT1 block casting but even at that there was no functional difference suggested between them.

The 4-bolt "Vette" blocks were the same casting as the Caprice got with a couple extra holes drilled in it. I would NOT pay extra for one of those either because by the time you need to consider 4-bolt mains it is time to put aftermarket caps on so no sense paying extra for a factory block with parts you would just throw away.

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Old 04-23-2012, 11:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwayne J View Post
I have heard one report of a different LT1 block casting but even at that there was no functional difference suggested between them.

The 4-bolt "Vette" blocks were the same casting as the Caprice got with a couple extra holes drilled in it. I would NOT pay extra for one of those either because by the time you need to consider 4-bolt mains it is time to put aftermarket caps on so no sense paying extra for a factory block with parts you would just throw away.
Dwayne, Speaking about 4 bolt mains, I recently bought a 95 LT1 rotating
assembly.I plan to do a rebuild and "warm" the block up a bit. I am not going for max power or anything like that. But if I can squeeze 350 hp out of it
that would be fine. Should I opt for making it a 4 bolt main block or let it stay as is. I plan to have the crank ground if necessary and also have it
balanced along with all the rotating pieces. tks ed

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Old 04-23-2012, 11:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would not even consider 4-bolt until doing at least a high effort stroker. Even at that the fastest NA LT1 b-body was running studded 2-bolt last I checked and it makes over 500 at the wheels.
Spending money on heads/cam is where power is. Generally people get too caught up in worrying about the shortblock or adding displacement and hurt their budget for the topend.

If the crank needs to be turned undersize I would probably just find another one that only needs a polish. Damage is about the only reason they ever need to be turned down anymore. A LOT of old engine wear was because the chokes on carbed stuff were set too rich and lasted too long into warmup washing oil off the cylinders and polluting the oil with fuel. Engines to not "wear out" the way they used too.

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