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6th Gen Drivetrain Transmissions, clutches, and axles.

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Old 04-05-2012, 06:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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torque converter suggestions 4L60-E

HI TO ALL, Unfortunately the trans in my Roadmaster wagon is
making excessive noise in first gear and it must come out. I will be replacing it with a rebuilt unit that has been warmed over a bit. Anyway ,
I would like to remove the big stock torque converter and replace it with
something that will give me a little more performance and not kill my
fuel mileage. Anyway for specifics the car is a 96 Buick roadmaster wag.
with an LT1. I have read where guys have used GM converters from smaller ,lighter vehicles like S-10 pickups, Astro vans,and Corvettes.
Since I will most likely be ordering from a Chevy dealer,I will need
part numbers or year & vehicle specifics so I can get the proper converter and be assured of it
fitting my 4L60-E trans and bolting up to my Roadmaster starter wheel.
Also this converter must be a lock up style converter,again I need to keep decent fuel economy . Thanks all for your help. ed

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Old 04-05-2012, 08:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The guys to ask about the torque converter would be DwayneJ or MrBuickMagnum, going with a factory TC is probably actually a waste of money, there are a couple of very good aftermarket brands, as well as some very bad ones. These guys have done the research and know which is which.

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Old 04-05-2012, 08:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The weight of these vehicles eventually lays over the fins in the S10 converters making them progressively more inefficient, and they are the same 12" size as the stock converter. The f-body or truck converters can get you a few hundred rpm more stall and should hold up. Really though you can get aftermarket good 12" units for $3xx and a good 9.5" for about $550 and those save like 20lbs of rotating weight.

Far as worrying about lockup my 3800 stall 9.5" unit is lockup. For this tranny you pretty much have to specifically go looking for non-lock as the vast majority retain lockup.

Since the 9.5" aftermarket units are mostly lockup they do not hurt mileage much if any. I get high teens out of my car with 3800/4.10s, something over 400rwhp and that includes racing as I don't take it out on the highway much unless going racing. Mileage only drops to about 17-18 in rural commute to work since the stall and gears really help acceleration in stop and go.

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Old 05-20-2012, 03:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What gear ratio is in the axle out back? If it has the 2.56 gears (RPO code GM8), then I would not get too aggressive with the stall speed. I had a 3400 stall in my Roadmaster Sedan with 2.93's, and that was too much stall for that gear ratio. It just felt sluggish with the 2.93's and that high of a stall.

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And 5 other LT1 powered land yachts Is there Rehab for this Sh*t?
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Old 06-28-2013, 06:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have a 96 Chevy Caprice that's hard shifting into first and second kind of like just jumps into those gears any suggestions on what could cause this problem

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Old 06-28-2013, 06:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If the color of Tranny is blue where did it come from I seen a lot of just straight bare aluminum looking training

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Old 06-28-2013, 10:27 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Please start a new thread. Btw if the tranny is blue it's because whoever did the rebuild painted it blue.

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1978 Caprice Classic Landau
350 2-bolt, stock 4bbl
Stock rebuilt TH350
Edelbrock performer cam + intake
Dual 2 1/2" Flowmaster exhuast (waiting to be installed)
Edelbrock IAS Classic shocks
95 9C1 3.08 posi
4 wheel disc brakes!
16x8 American Racing Baja's with 225/60/16 Pirelli P4's

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Old 06-30-2013, 06:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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probably just the all too common crappy rebuild including such common stupidity as "blocked accumulators". There are a lot of shops that build this tranny badly and banging shifts is one very strong clue, that will break things. Shifts can be nice and mellow part throttle and should be quick but not hard under hard throttle.

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